Edurne Pasaban: Blog

To my dear friend Mario Merelli

Thu, 19 Jan 2012 00:00:00 +0000

I’ve just received a phone call from Silvio Mondinelli. Unfortunately he wasn’t calling to tell me about his latest mountaineering project. He was calling to give me some bad news, some very bad news: “Mario Merelli has gone.” That’s what he said.
What? “Mario has been involved in a mountaineering accident today and he is no longer with us” he replied. I was unable to speak for a few seconds. My mouth was dry and my heart began to pound. I couldn’t believe it. Not another friend, please. No, no, no….
I met Mario in the year 2000. We went to the North of Everest together and we climbed Everest together in 2001. We also went to Dhaulagiri in 2001 and mourned the death of our companion Pepe Garcés on that expedition. We went back to the Himalayas the following year to climb Makalu, and went on various other expeditions together…
Alter each expedition Mario would go back to Italy, to Lizzola, to his hotel in the mountains and I would come back to my home until the next expedition. Each of us would lead our own lives, sending each other the odd email between expeditions or the odd phone message to talk about things or simply to let the other know that we were OK. That was until today. There won’t be any more messages from Mario. I received his last one on the 23rd of December, wishing me a Merry Christmas and sending me a hug. It’s strange because I know that I will still expect a message from him from time to time, a few words, because you never really think that such people have really gone. You don’t want them to stop being a part of your life, those friends who are far away but at the same time feel close.

Mario, thanks for being my friend, my confessor on many occasions. Thanks for being such a great person, for loving your friends and for showing it. Thanks for being my team-mate and thanks for every minute that we have spent together where we have been so happy – in the mountains, in the Himalayas. I’ll miss you.]]>

A lot of heartfelt solidarity in the Valley

Wed, 11 Jan 2012 00:00:00 +0000

What better setting to unwrap the gift than my room at home with the chimney and its warmth. What better way to get my spirits up with than watching images that bring back good memories to me. When I was asked to be a patron of this charitable cross-country ski race, I never imagined that as many as eighty people would come together at the starting line for such a good cause.
The images on the television make me feel warm inside: the mountains, the sun, friends, the smiles on everyone’s’ faces, the great atmosphere… and the children in the Himalayas. It is a touching combination. I only know that I am anxious for next winter to come around so we can organise and participate in the second edition. This type of event provides me with extra strength in order to carry on each day. There is no better excuse for soldiering on. The video ended. I would have liked to see more, but what I saw was enough to give life some meaning. I am left with the affection of the participants, with their smiles, with their tiredness, with the embrace of a fellow participant at the finish line, with the sincere thoughts of the participants, with the satisfied faces of the organisers. And with my own satisfied face, because in spite of having to wear a vest with number one on it in my capacity as patron, I have to confess that I was just another participant.

Here you can watch the video. ]]>

Thinking about the mountains

Thu, 15 Dec 2011 00:00:00 +0000

I feel somewhat anxious. I can feel the buzz that you get from the mountains. This must be because I haven't lost that excitement you get when you are young. I am honestly convinced that I still have it. And I like it. I love feeling this invisible attraction every day that I put my boots on, grab my gear and head upwards. The steeper the terrain, the more I enjoy the route.
The year is coming to an end and the conclusion that I have reached is that I am still excited about doing what I do. I want to carry on mountaineering. The temptation is still very much there. I like the idea that I am still up for it and raring to go. It hasn't been an easy year. I have thought about a lot of things and I have reached the most basic conclusion. I'm going to carry on doing what I am doing and I am still in love with the mountains. I am also really enthusiastic about things. When Christmas is over I will step up my preparation because I want to be on top form.
This year I have given a lot of conferences and I have actually felt people's excitement. This is another good way of topping up your enthusiasm. When people tell you to carry on, when they urge you to take on new challenges it means a lot to me, because you are never alone in the mountains. I have been to many cities and various mountaineering clubs and I have witnessed a healthy and enthusiastic interest in our sport. It is a delight to see so many people ready to pack up their rucksacks and put on their mountain boots! I am really happy that we are continuing to promote a sport which dignifies a series of values which are necessary in order for our society to grow.]]>

My experience at the first race organised by the Juan XXIII Foundation

Tue, 11 Oct 2011 00:00:00 +0000

It was after this visit that I was made a patron of the Foundation, a role which fills me with joy and is really important to me. If everything that I have achieved as a mountaineer and sports person can be of use for this type of thing then I want to do more and more. It makes me happy, it's as simple as that.

On the 30th of September the Foundation's first race was held. Other foundations also dedicated to improving the quality of life of people living with disabilities took part, as did children from different schools in the Vicálvaro district.  
I simply have to tell you about the emotions that I experienced when we were starting firstly the walk, and then later the race itself. Words cannot describe the nerves, that feeling that you get in your stomach. It was just like when you are getting ready to tackle an eight-thousander. You can imagine how the participants were feeling, as this was a big day for them. At the end of the race, when those taking part were reaching the finish line, and when we were presenting the prizes, I was absolutely convinced that I was the luckiest person in the world. All the smiles, the kisses, the whole way in which I was treated was incredible. As sentimental as I am, I must confess to shedding a few tears. It was an amazing feeling – I think that events like this one give me the same satisfaction as conquering a mountain. I also think that they would make other sports personalities feel the same way. That's why I think that we should do a lot more of this type of thing, because it satisfies you just as much as when you win something, score a goal or climb an eight-thousander.

Thanks to all of you for making it such a wonderful day.]]>

Congratulations to you and all your team Gerlinde!

Wed, 24 Aug 2011 00:00:00 +0000

I have met some amazing people in the Himalayas, people truly worthy of admiration, and Gerlinde is one of these people. I think that she is one of the most intelligent, toughest and technically gifted female mountaineers that I have ever come across, in addition to being a really nice person.

A few days ago we exchanged several emails. She had yet to begin her ascent to the summit of K2, and she told me in her mails that the route that she had taken was as tough as it was beautiful. Consequently I have been concerned about her over these last few days. Here was a friend of mine climbing one of the toughest mountains on earth, without oxygen and via a complicated route. My concern was a result of what she had told me, and I just hoped that everything was going to turn out OK.

I was delighted when I learned that she had reached the summit. I tried to imagine how she felt, up there at the top. She will undoubtedly tell us all about it, but I am sure that she felt very, very happy considering all the hard work that she has put in over the last few years in order to complete this project.

I was also somewhat nervous thinking about her descent. The only thing that I would ask is that she comes back down and heads back home soon, so that she can enjoy the whole experience with Raff and all her loved ones – there are a lot of us.

This is how I feel. Gerlinde is one of the people who I admire the most in the Himalayas. She is someone who has maintained her own particular style right until the end, and who has been clear about her objectives from the very beginning. She is an incredible woman who can be defined by two concepts: A GREAT mountaineer (the best) and a BETTER person.

Congratulations Gerlinde!

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GORE WELCOME EDURNE PASABAN ON BOARD

Wed, 13 Jul 2011 00:00:00 +0000

GORE and Edurne share the same core values such as a love for nature, hard work, passion for extreme challenges, honesty and success. This combination has made Edurne a perfect candidate to become a GORE Europe pro team member. All GORE associates welcome Edurne Pasaban on board.

Edurne Pasaban will begin by actively participating at the GORE-TEX® Experience Tour “An all women project: Share tips and tricks with Edurne Pasaban.” This is an unforgettable project for female outdoors enthusiasts across Europe, spending a weekend ascending Aneto mountain (3,404 m) in the company of Edurne Pasaban.

This adventure, will take place in October 2011. Edurne will be introducing the project at the Outdoor Fair in Friedrichshafen, Germany on July 15th 2011.

Edurne will also be available on Facebook, chatting with outdoor enthusiasts on September 15th and may be involved in other GORE projects in near future.

What is GORE-TEX® Experience Tour?
The GORE-TEX® Experience Tour invites outdoor enthusiasts from all over Europe to apply on Facebook for a chance to take part in a variety of challenges.
The ambitious objective is to bring together expert heroes and the outdoor community. To realise this goal, GORE-TEX® has mobilised outdoor specialists from different countries who are ready, willing and able to share their passion and experience. The project will result in new approaches and innovative ideas that push boundaries and contribute to the development of outdoor sports.
About Edurne Pasaban

Alpinist Edurne Pasaban is the first woman ever to climb all fourteen 8,000-metre peaks. She has been a prominent figure in the international climbing scene for a long time and is now a major international sports personality.
Her success has been widely acknowledged and in 2010 Edurne was designated Spanish sportswoman of the year and Adventurer of The Year by National Geographic. She is at the pinnacle of an already amazing career.

To obtain more information and take part, visit the GORE-TEX® Outdoor Products fanpage:
http://www.facebook.com/GORETEX.OutdoorProducts
http://newsroom.gore-tex.eu/de/de_home/]]>

I already have projects for next year

Wed, 01 Jun 2011 00:00:00 +0000

The last two days at base camp were strange. There was nothing left except for the last few expeditions, almost all of them commercial, who were packing up and Russell, the Benegas brothers and ourselves. It was as if we were all part of the same family and it was weird. Everything that had happened had brought us much closer together and when we were dismantling the base camp I had the sensation that everything was coming to an end and that I didn't want it to; I didn't want to leave these guys. It's just like when we were adolescents and our parents used to send us to a camp – on the last day we used to cry because we were no longer going to be with our friends. It was the same feeling. We will see each other again, I have no doubt about that, but this was really something special.

We left base camp on the 27th and walked for three days until we reached Lukla. There we caught a flight to Kathmandu. Our descent was quick, long and arduous – whilst it took us a week to ascend, it only took us three days to descend. We gradually started to relax as we got closer to our destination, especially when we reached the point where the land is green, where we saw fields showing signs of life, trees, and we could actually smell nature all around us… This was when smiles began to appear on the faces of the team and I was able to relax much more. Everyone felt at ease, and believe it or not this is the moment when new projects are hatched, and when we begin to dream. It is amazing to think that before we arrived at Lukla to catch the plane to Kathmandu, we had already outlined projects for next year. Great stuff!!!!!!! This is our life, it is what we love doing, what makes us happy, and the reason why life is worth living and why we are excited about our next adventure. This passion that we feel is the reason why we will be back.

Now that we are in Kathmandu, and are feeling more relaxed, we have met up again with all our friends from base camp. It has been really great – yesterday we organised an Argentinian style roast dinner on the terrace of a hotel of some friends of ours. We had a really good time and everyone was there. Looking around you could see that everyone was having a great time because we were all at ease and enjoying the end of our adventure. It is amazing to be able to experience all these sensations in life.

Tomorrow afternoon we will finally catch the plane home, and as I told you, we will arrive back on Friday morning. Everest has finished for this year. The whole team want to thank you for supporting us. On this occasion we weren't able to reach the summit, this can happen in mountaineering: sometimes you make it and sometimes you don't. We have absolutely no excuses for not reaching the summit, we didn't make it because it mustn't have been our year. What is clear is that we will keep on training, dreaming, and if we can, climbing. This is what makes us happy and gives meaning to our lives!

Thanks to all those of you who have followed and supported us. And sorry to all those of you who don't like what we do, but you can't please everyone in this life. So, a big thank you to everyone.

With much love

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We are coming home this Friday

Tue, 31 May 2011 00:00:00 +0000

We are now packing up and preparing all the cargo that has to go back to Spain, plus the rest of the gear that will stay here. On Friday we will be arriving at around half past eight in the morning and we will be holding a press conference there at the airport. I will take advantage of this opportunity to explain to you all the details of what happened during the rescue of our compatriots on Lhotse

Best wishes to you all]]>

48 hours of uncertainty, toil and fear

Tue, 24 May 2011 00:00:00 +0000

On 20th of May at one pm, we arrived at the South Col of Everest, at an altitude of 8000 metres. The whole team: Nacho, Asier, Ferrán, Jambu, Migma, Pasang and myself all happily made it. We were now nearer to our objective: the summit of Everest. We arrived, put up our tents as best we could seeing as it was cold and windy, and got inside them. There were other expeditions, other people at the camp, and all of them in the same position as ourselves: waiting to attack the summit the following day. However, in our case there was a difference: we were attempting it without oxygen. Asier, Jambu and I set about melting ice in one of the tents whilst Ferrán, Nigma, Nacho and Passan were in the other. We were happy – our opportunity had arrived. The following day our dream was to become reality, or at least we were going to attempt to make it so. But at around 4 in the afternoon Nacho shouted me from the other tent. He told me that Passan and Migma were feeling unwell, very unwell. They had the beginnings of altitude sickness: they couldn't breath and they were exhausted. No problem! We didn't hesitate to give them oxygen because their saturation was extremely low.
Pablo gave us instructions from base camp and we did exactly what he said. The oxygen gradually made them feel a lot better, but we were all very, very worried and it was clear that they had to go back down as soon as possible. Night fell. We were thoroughly intending to set off for the summit at around 10 o'clock, but things started to change. Migma and Passan needed to go back down straight away but as soon as night fell a strong wind began to blow. At around 10 o'clock the other expeditions began to set off for the summit, but of course they were using oxygen. Without oxygen it was impossible to stand the cold outside; extreme cold caused by the wind. Inside the tents, we were debating whether or not to make our ascent. But how could we make our ascent? Passan and Migma couldn't move, it was windy, and if we did set off we would be frozen within a few hours. At around 5 in the morning dawn broke amongst all this uncertainty, but the wind on the South Col did not stop blowing. At around 6 Nacho and Ferrán came to our tent to speak to Asier, Jambu and I, and all of us decided to head back down to base camp and help Migma and Passan make the journey. Thanks to the oxygen, they were feeling a lot better, but they still needed our help.

Making our descent from the South Col towards camp three, we could see on the Lhotse corridor there were people near the summit. There were two people very high up and a large group much further down. It was Juanito and Carlos' group – the whole team. We looked on, a little envious, as they attacked the summit. I turned my head and looked at the summit of Everest. They were going up to the top and we were coming down. At a time like this doubts start to creep into your mind: had we made the right or the wrong decision? The truth is that our mountain was 400 metres higher, but such thoughts are inevitable. I concentrated on our descent because it was difficult enough as it was. I took one last look at the Lhotse corridor and wished them luck. At around 4 in the afternoon we all safely made it back to base camp. Pablo immediately checked Migma and Passan over, and confirmed that we had made the right decision. Our attack on the summit and our problems had apparently ended. However, this was not to be the case as they hadn't even started; we simply did not know it yet.
On the 21st, having descended 8000 metres, when I got into bed I had no idea what we were going to find the next morning. On the 22nd, at 7 in the morning, I began to hear radios from outside my tent. Radios, and people rushing around. I heard the word 'rescue', and jumped out of bed.

There were problems on Lhotse. Please no! They had made it to the summit but had got there very late. When they began to descend to C4 they were exhausted and suffering from frostbite. There were people who could not move from C4, who could not make it down by themselves, and worst of all Lolo had disappeared and had not made it back to C4 at any point during the night. What should we do?
I immediately realised that we needed to ask the larger expeditions for help. My good friends Damián and Willi Benegas were on one of the expeditions. Damian was on the South Col with his clients but his brother was at base camp. I didn't hesitate to go in search of help.

And then it all began. Here at base camp on Everest a rescue team was immediately assembled. The first thing that we did was to call camp two in order to check if they could see people descending from camp four on Lhotse, and they told us that they could see people coming down. They were apparently moving. Straight away we knew that everybody was on the move, but Isabel and Rober had remained at C4 with serious frostbite, together with an Iranian guy.
We spoke to Damián, who had already begun to descend from the South Col, and we told him to look out for Lolo at some point above C4 on Lhotse. He was the only person with a view of this area. Suddenly Damián asked us on the walkie talkie if Lolo was wearing something orange, and we told him that he was. Damián could see something orange above C4 in a rocky spot that is known as the “turtle shell”.
Damián left his clients to come down with his Sherpas, and he and another guide from his team, Matoco, immediately began their ascent up to C4 on Lhotse. They found Rober and Isa there, and they were in a very bad way. Rober was in a worse state due to some serious frostbite, and he couldn't see. They gave first aid to Rober and bandaged his eyes. At this point they called one of their Sherpas, who was descending with their clients, and told him to turn back so that he could help. Thus Rober and Isa, with the help of the Sherpa and the Iranian guy, began to gradually descend. Damián and Matoco went directly to investigate what the orange blob that they had seen was. We did not hold out much hope. You can't imagine the emotion that you feel here at base camp when over the walkie talkie an exhausted Damián tells you “HE'S ALIVE!”.
Lolo was alive, but unable to move. They then began to attach ropes to him and rescue him from where he was. He was in a really dangerous spot, and at an altitude of almost 8000 metres. When people ask me who my heroes really are, heroes are people like these guys: Damián and Matoco, who risk their lives to rescue someone that they hardly know. And, of course, a hero is also someone like Lolo because of his will to live. His words when they got to him were:”I want to live”. These people are heroes, no one else.

And so a rescue began that has lasted for two days, two of the most difficult days of my life and about which you can find more information via any of the media. I could write pages and pages, describe what happened minute by minute, because it was all recorded minute by minute. However, I am not going to, because it is very hard to re-live what we have all been through. My friends were about to loose their lives; there was tension, fear, happiness, arguments... More than 50 people took part. Expeditions such as Russells' 'Himalayan Explorers', the IMG expedition, the Benegas and Patagonian Brothers' expeditions. Our expedition, the Endesa Everest without O2. People from different countries, from different cultures, but we joined forces and we saved peoples' lives. This is what mountaineering is all about and I knew that I had friends. However, during these 48 hours I have realised that I have more than friends. I am grateful for my life, and for the fact that there are people in the world like the people who are here with my now. This is what makes life worth living.

These 48 hours have shown me much more than all the years that I have been coming to the Himalayas. Via these few paragraphs I want to thank everybody, all those HEROES, who have shown me that life is worth living and that the mountains are our life.

We, the Endesa Everest without O2 expedition, are coming home. We are exhausted, and Vitor, our weatherman, has forecast good weather for us over the next few days. It is the right decision for us all.

THANK YOU MY FRIENDS

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Edurne Pasaban takes part in the rescue of Spanish mountaineers on Lhotse

Mon, 23 May 2011 00:00:00 +0000

Edurne Pasaban has gone through the most nerve-wracking weekend since the Endesa expedition to Everest without oxygen began. On Friday, her attack on the summit of Everest ran into complications when two of the Sherpas on the team began to feel unwell at camp 4, at an altitude of eight thousand metres. Despite the fact that the Sherpas recovered, thanks to the treatment administered by the other team members, their final assault on the summit was delayed by high winds which were far stronger than those forecast. This unexpected delay meant that it was no longer safe to climb to the highest point on the planet without the use of supplementary oxygen. Since she was determined not to use bottled gas right from the beginning, Pasaban finally erred on the side of caution and aborted the attempt. However, the expedition’s tent and some gear were left at camp 4 with a view to a new attempt next week.

Consequently all the expedition members returned to Base Camp safe and sound this afternoon. However, they were not able to rest after four days climbing, and a night spent at 8000 metres when nobody was able to sleep a wink: at nightfall worrying news began to filter through from Lhotse (the eight-thousander in close proximity to Everest and which shares part of the same route). Various Spanish expedition members had made it to the summit of Lhotse that day, some of them very late in the day, and they were having difficulties in making it back to Camp 4. At dawn on Sunday it was announced by radio that Carlos Pauner, Roberto Rodrigo and Isabel Garcia were suffering from frostbite and/or cerebral oedemaa and that the Andalusian Manuel “Lolo” Gonzalez had not returned to camp.

At this point the expeditions currently at Base Camp set in motion an extreme rescue operation. Edurne Pasaban went straight to the camp of the 'Patagonian Brothers' agency, from where the operation was being coordinated. The Argentinian guides Damian Benegas and Matias “Matoco” Erroz, who had just returned from the summit of Everest, did not think twice about changing course and climbing Lhotse. They found Lolo, incapable of moving and very weak having spent the night out in the open at an altitude of 8100 metres, but they found him alive! The commercial expeditions, who frequently come in for criticism, made all their oxygen available to the injured and mobilised all the Sherpas who were fit to help Lolo. Edurne Pasaban participated in the coordination of the rescue, facilitated communication between the teams and, according to various sources, did not hesitate to put up the money necessary to avoid bureaucratic delays that could have slowed up the rescue process.

There have been very few rescues made at an altitude of over eight thousand metres previously, but the joint action of all those involved proved to be invaluable. The Argentians and teams of Sherpas worked in shifts to carry Lolo by stretcher. They arrived at Camp 2 at midnight last night, where the other injured were being treated. This morning a helicopter evacuated Lolo and Roberto Rodrigo directly from Camp 2. The others have slowly made their way to Base Camp, where the doctors from Edurne's expedition and Himalayan Experience were waiting for them in order to evaluate their injuries, treat them and request further evacuations by air if necessary.]]>

We are in the Base Camp

Sat, 21 May 2011 00:00:00 +0000

16:05  

They are back "home"!

We went to meet them at the Icefall, taking something special to drink. They made it back safe and sound, in good spirits and looking very cheerful. The guys who you can tell have had a rough time are the Sherpas.

However, they don't look too bad seeing as I think that we all appreciate that these things happen in the mountains.  The fact is that they are now all cosily having something to eat in the kitchen tent.

They seem relaxed, and are telling us about the thousand and one things that have happened to them. I am doing likewise, because we have also lived though it all from down here.  Now it is turn to rest.

After dinner we are all bound to want to get into our sleeping bags early, the whole lot of us, since none of us practically slept a wink last night.  Tomorrow will be another day, with news of its own, but the guys will be more rested and calm.

It will be time to decide what we do next. 

Pablo Díaz-Munio
Expedition Doctor for the 14+1 Challenge

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Camp 2

Sat, 21 May 2011 00:00:00 +0000

At 5:50 the decision was taken to abort.
We suspected as much because we had agreed that they would contact us when the wind died down, and they waited until dawn before calling. We had also been constantly monitoring their position with the "tracker" and we knew that they had not moved from camp 4. The main thing is that they are all OK, even the Sherpas are feeling better. The wind has not died down as forecast, not for a second, and they have had a really bad night. They haven't even been out of the tent.
When they finally called we discussed the three possible options: wait at camp 4 to make another attempt the following night, go back down to camp 2 leaving gear at camp 4 for another attempt in a few days, or totally give up and go home.
I have no doubts that the first option is not a viable one and so we have discarded it. The forecast for the following day is more wind, so that option has been ruled out.
As regards the other two, it is a really tough call. Of course, totally aborting the expedition is a decision that the guys will have to take depending on just how exhausted they are, both physically and emotionally.
Having checked the forecasts, the only thing that I can do is tell them to open another 'window' for the 24th , 25th and 26th. The first two days will be sunny and not too windy. The third will be calm but there is a lot of snow forecast.
Anyway, it is a real 'window' but it will be very, very complicated seeing as they would not have sufficient time to recuperate. In fact, they would have to come down and rest at camp 2, not even down to base camp.
And so we are waiting to contact them again, once they are all prepared for their descent, in order to assess the possibilities and work out a strategy which will logically affect how they pack up camp 4 on the windy South Col.  

At 9:40 they were ready to begin their descent.
They are all coming back down safe and sound. However, things have also taken their toll on the guys, in particular on our Sherpas Pasang and Mingma, who are suffering from the altitude. This morning they felt better when they got up, having slept and got some rest with artificial oxygen. However, as soon as they set about doing their jobs, despite being in good spirits, they felt the worse for wear again which is only to be expected. When the camp was all packed up, apart from a small quantity of gear which is being left in case they make another attempt, they all set off together as a unit. They stopped at camp 3 to rest and get their strength back. We took the opportunity to tell them about the window that will be, according to the forecast, available between the 24th and the 26th.
However Edurne, as magnificent as ever, took control of the situation and her exact reply was: "Doc! I can see what state we are in making out descent, myself included, and this window is too soon. It is not a viable option as we won't have had time to recover". Believe me, it requires more than a little maturity to take such a decision in a situation like this, especially when she is in better shape than some of the others. I must admit to being very proud of her. So, the current situation is that they have begun their descent to camp 2. Giving that they are taking things slowly and looking after the Sherpas, they will take a little longer than usual. Once they get to camp 2, and Ngati has already been informed of their arrival, they will have something to eat and rest. I am going to tell them to spend the night there so that they can come back down to base camp tomorrow. We will see just how they are and at what time they reach base camp. Having said all this, the sun is shining and there is a pleasant breeze... Today the mountain did not want them to make it...!

10:45 and they are already at camp 2!
 They have made it safe and sound, and practically just in time to sit down and eat because Ngati had salad and melted water ready and waiting for them (don't forget that this is a real luxury at a camp at altitude). They are preparing to eat and get some rest.  Now we have to make an important decision: as expected they want to come straight back down, whereas I would prefer them to stay where they are and come back down tomorrow. I have no doubt that they will win this one, but bear in mind that they still have to a fair trek through the "Valley of Silence", and it will probably be really hot given what time it is. The good thing is that they will have just rested, eaten and rehydrated. In return, they will complete another 1000 metres in addition to gaining moral incentive, which will be very important for going home.

14:12.  

They have crossed the "Valley" without any problems, aided by the fact that the sky has clouded over and there wind is blowing a bit.

They are now on the "Icefall", on the final stages before they make it to base camp. It sounds like they are in good spirits, but until they make it back they will not let their guard down.

They will be here soon. 

Pablo Díaz-Munio
Expedition Doctor for the 14+1 Challenge

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The wind has forced us to head back to camp 2

Sat, 21 May 2011 00:00:00 +0000

Everyone is OK – the four members of the expedition and the sherpas. It has been a tough day and we are setting off for camp 2 now. There we will wait for instructions from Vitor to see if the weather conditions will be ideal for reaching the summmit. We could be talking of the 24th or 25th of May.

We will keep you posted.]]>

At 22:00 they will set off for the summit!

Fri, 20 May 2011 00:00:00 +0000

Camp 4...!
They have now arrived at camp 4. We have just spoken to Edurne and she told us that they had reached their destination. However, she told us that they arrived at 13:15!!! Apparently radio communication is not possible at the moment, perhaps due to the clouds that we have here at base camp.
They made their ascent comfortably and without any problems, doing it in good time as always. The four of them went up together, following the path marked out by Pasang and Mingma who had gone ahead to start getting camp 4 ready. They told us that they have passed many people who are on their way down. Once they had made it to camp 4, two of them took charge of melting snow whilst the other two finished setting up camp. Once they had had something to eat and drink and were inside the tents, they called us via the "Thuraya" (satellite phone) to tell us everything. They told us that medically they are all fine, with the exception of Asier and his upset stomach. I am sure that he knows what he has to do. The wind is getting up, just as the forecast predicted. They will now stay in the tent, resting as much as possible and waiting for the right time to set off on the final charge.The plan is to set off at 22:00, and we will be on alert throughout the night, waiting to see how they progress and keeping you up to date with any developments.
They are now at an altitude of 7950m – it is almost an "eight-thousander", there is only one more left...! 

Pablo Díaz-Munio
Expedition Doctor for the 14+1 Challenge

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They are now at camp 3, and waiting on the snow that is forecast

Thu, 19 May 2011 00:00:00 +0000

The second phase has been completed – they have now reached camp 3! Everything is going well, and as a well-known actor used to say: “I love it when a plan comes together...!”. At 7 am I was already waiting where we keep the radio for Asier to call, even though I knew that it was too early. Last night we agreed that they would wait until 8 o'clock before calling since today was going to be a short day whilst tomorrow, on the other hand, will be much longer. And it was at 8 o'clock that Asier called us. It turns out that they have all slept very well, which is good news. The comfortableness of camp 2, and a little help of the chemical variety, made sure of that but we mustn't forget that this is also a sign that they have acclimatised correctly – which is more good news!
After breakfast at camp 2, complete with some “Ensure”, they set off. They had a surprise waiting for them in their backpacks: Ngati had prepared lentils for them to eat at camp 3. The guy is amazing, and this just goes to confirm the importance of a good support team, from the guys at the top right down to the guys at the bottom. (I couldn't actually tell you who is at the top and who is at the bottom).
At 12:10 Edurne called us, all excitedly, to inform us that they had made it to camp 3. I always try to make them take things steadily, and not to race, but despite this they comfortably made it to their destination in 3 hours which represents another good time. I am not so much bothered about how long it has taken them but rather how much it has taken out of them. When I asked them about this, they told me that the going was quick and easy, in spite of the snowfall last night (they only got half the amount of snow that we did). They also said that the amount of people who have gone that way before them actually helps, and that the route has ice steps which makes it easier and even a bit safer. Good stuff!
Our surprise (and there's always one) is that we have had guests. Someone has apparently slept in our tents. This wouldn't matter were it not for the lack of respect that these people have shown, seeing as they have rummaged through some of the stuff and have even left some rubbish inside.
To be honest I can't explain stuff like this. We wouldn't have a problem with someone who had got into difficulties taking shelter in our quarters, of course we wouldn't. However, this inexplicable lack of respect - leaving everything in a mess and even leaving rubbish behind - makes it look as if someone wanted to do this on purpose.
Still, we have been lucky in that nothing is apparently missing. Imagine if something was missing – depending on what gear had been taken this could actually compromise the completion of the expedition. Still, as I have said, this wasn't the case and so we will say no more about it.
Now that they are settled in at the camp, they just need to rest and get their strength back. However, they also need to keep an eye on the sky, and their fingers crossed in the hope that the snow forecast for this afternoon is not very heavy.
Tonight they will be sleeping at 7200m!

  Pablo Díaz-Munio
Expedition Doctor for the 14+1 Challenge

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They reached camp 2 in only six and a half hours

Wed, 18 May 2011 00:00:00 +0000

First phase completed without any problems! By 5:30 this morning we were already having a cup of tea with the Sherpas in the kitchen tent.
The guys seemed less nervous today than they usually do on any other morning when they are going climbing. They had smiles on their faces and seemed keen to go into action, which is what motivates them the most.
At 6 am, after the "Puja" ceremony, they set off and just six and a half hours later they had reached camp 2. They did it in excellent time, bearing in mind how long it takes other expeditions to do this, plus the fact that our spot at camp 2 is at the highest point of that great "village".
Ngati, who had gone on ahead, was waiting for them with 'Russian Salad' and yoghurt. Being able to enjoy a camp 2 like ours is a real advantage as it is far more comfortable than they usually are. It will also help us to ensure that these guys get a decent meal tonight and also have a good breakfast tomorrow. I have ordered rice, "dal bhat"..., and they will definitely pay attention to me this time because Ngati know that Edurne loves it. They just have to remember not to make it too spicy, as Asier and Nacho have delicate stomachs.
As regards the weather, the team told us that it was a bit windy but that the wind was now dying down. This is exactly what the forecast predicted, so there is no need to worry. If everything goes as expected the wind should start to die down, and tomorrow it should all but disappear to be replaced by snow. Here's hoping we don't get too much snow.
Everyone is in goods spirits, everyone is doing well and their nerves are all under control... it is all going perfectly! Now it is time to rest. The time to begin the second phase is upon us, the phase which will take them to camp 3. Just how well they do their homework now will have a considerable bearing on just how well things go tomorrow. They need to reach camp 3 before the snow has had the opportunity to cause them too many problems on the way.
We are now 1000m closer...! 

  Pablo Díaz-Munio
Expedition Doctor for the 14+1 Challenge

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We are setting off for the summit

Tue, 17 May 2011 00:00:00 +0000

This morning, after breakfast, we all went to our respective tents to get our stuff ready. In actual fact, pretty much everything has already been taken further up the mountain, but it was just the little things that were left: the flags for the summit, new socks for the summit, batteries for our headlamps … and those little things that each of us has in our tents and that we put into our rucksacks so that we can take them to the highest peak in the world. We all have our own little things that we take: a doll, a photo... personal, intimate stuff.

Tomorrow we are setting off for camp two early, because we want to get there quickly in order to rest. On Thursday we will go from camp two to camp three. It is not a long journey, but you can really feel the difference in altitude. The day that we are going to camp three, the Sherpas will leave base camp for camp two, seeing as they refuse to sleep at camp three because they don't like it at all. I can see why: the less time that you sleep at altitude the better. They will go directly from camp two to camp four, on the South Col. They really are amazing. I would like to be capable of doing this myself so as not to have to sleep at camp three, but there are very few people who are capable of doing this, and our Sherpas belong to this select group. Thus we will all meet up on the way from camp three to camp four and we will all arrive at the South Col together, at an altitude of almost 8000 metres. Here we will set up our final camp. By my calculations, we will get there at around 3 in the afternoon. We will get settled in our tents as best we can and will be there for a while. You can't really say that we will get any sleep. We are intending to set off for the summit at 11 at night. The first few hours won't be the hardest part. I reckon that the toughest time will be when it starts to get light, because that is when it is the coldest. Moreover, that will be when we are in between the balcony and the South summit. This will be the most critical moment, when we will have to bear the cold and be strong, above all mentally. We have heard that at around 7 in the morning at the South Summit the sun beats down and this will help us a lot. After the South Summit we will still have to climb the ridge that leads to the Hilary Step, and from there keep going up to the summit. I reckon that it will take about 45 minutes. If all goes well we will be able to reach the summit of Everest.

As you can see, we still have a lot of work to do. It will take us five days in all to go up to the top and come back down, but as soon as we set off tomorrow for the summit it will all go very quickly. I know this from experience. How am I doing? As I was saying, I am nervous, very nervous, but that's normal. I am also afraid. Why shouldn't I tell you the truth, that I am afraid? I am afraid of the mountain, I am afraid of the cold, of not being able to stand the cold, I am afraid of getting frostbite - that is what I am most afraid of. I can't see anything else presenting much of a problem. I will try and stay calm and keep myself as hydrated as possible. Drink, drink, drink – that's the key.

Over the next few days whilst we are up top, Pablo will keep you informed about how everything is going. He will also keep you up to date with our news every day. I really feel that we make a great team: We are all really excited and keen to reach the summit of Everest without oxygen, and this is what we are going to attempt to do. We are doing it primarily for ourselves, but of course we are also doing it for you, for all those of you who are following our expedition and sending us your messages of support. Let's enjoy it.

Love to you all]]>

Waiting for the wind to die down at the summit

Mon, 16 May 2011 00:00:00 +0000

Of course there are things happening here: people are reaching the summit almost everyday. I don't even know how many people have reached the summit of Everest this season because it is impossible to keep tabs on everyone. Many customers with the commercial expeditions have already conquered the summit and helicopters are arriving every single morning to take all these customers back to Kathmandu, and then home.

We, on the other hand, are still here. We would also like to make it to the top as soon as possible, but the weather forecast is not that good and this affects us in particular. The   guys who are making it to the top are doing so with the help of artificial oxygen: Even if the wind is blowing when they reach the summit, it doesn't pose too much of a problem. In our case, there has to be practically no wind at all, and this is apparently not going to be possible before the 20th or the 21st.

As a result, we have had to entertain ourselves over the last few days at base camp. Perhaps the most difficult part is not allowing everything that is going on around us to influence us, and just getting on with the preparations for our ascent. It is hard. One day we went for a walk, and another day we went to Boulder at the base camp on Pumori to try and immerse ourselves in our own little world and concentrate on the matter in hand.   All the while we are waiting for the right day to attack the summit of Everest.

According to the weather report that we have from Vitor Baia, the 21st might be the best opportunity to make it to the top, as the wind is going to die down considerably. The days just before then, the 19th and 20th, are going to be cloudy with a little snow. However, I reckon that our best option is the 21st .   At the moment there doesn't seem to by any other option.

Tomorrow will be our last day at base camp before we begin our ascent. I know exactly what it is going to be like: all nerves and meticulous preparations so that we don't forget anything. Days like this are really strange. I want to get out of here now and although I know that we are going to suffer a bit, or rather a lot, I just want to begin our ascent.

Tomorrow I will let you know what we finally decide before we begin our ascent. Thanks to all of you who are supporting us and following the expedition, and for the messages of support that you are sending us.

Love

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We have returned, but we are very tired and are going to rest.

Thu, 12 May 2011 00:00:00 +0000

It was really, really cold and when we began our descent towards camp 2 we ran into a long line of people going in the opposite direction. Some of them were going to camp 3 and others to camp 4 with the intention of attacking the summit. The fact that some people are already going up to the top made us feel a little bit envious, but we also know that our turn will come. We made it back down to camp 2 in less than an hour. The journey is pretty much problem free because the Lhotse face is well equipped with ropes in both directions: one for ascending, which everyone was doing, and another for descending, along which we were abseiling. From time to time we even stopped to say hello to people that we knew and wish them luck.
When we arrived at camp 2 the Sherpas were still asleep, but Nati got up straight away to make coffee. The scene which greeted us was a sight to remember: our two tents have been erected on top of a river. We had not realised this until now, as everything was covered in snow, but now the snow has started melting with the heat and the water has appeared. Our tents are like a swimming pool, and it is a problem that we will have to sort out over the next few days. As we had arrived very early, we couldn't move everything because it was all frozen. It has to be done when the sun is beating down hard. As a result, we all decided to come back down to base camp to be more comfortable. We packed up and set off quickly.
Having passed camp 1 we got caught in all the heat on the ice fall. From there we contacted base camp by radio so that they could come and meet us at the entrance to the icefall with something to drink, seeing as we were all dehydrated. We were in luck, as when we arrived they were all there waiting for us with water and Coke. You can't imagine how good it tasted! And it tastes even better if your friends are there to welcome you like this.
As I told you , yesterday I couldn't do much apart from eat and sleep. I also rang my mum, who is always worried. Today has been different, but also a little strange as the weather has not been too good. We are all in our tents and I think that we all need a bit of rest. Pablo has had a look at all of us, and we all seem fine. We are well acclimatised and this gives you peace of mind as it is a job well done. Now we have to wait for some good weather so that we can begin our ascent.

Love to all]]>

First contact with camp IV

Tue, 10 May 2011 00:00:00 +0000

So, just as the guys predicted yesterday, they did not get up very early this morning. I had been waiting for them to call in the communications tent for a while when I finally heard the radio. Asier informed me that they had slept well and hadn't felt the cold. In fact, they were in the mood for getting their own back: Edurne grabbed the walkie talkie and told me that she had taken a whole "Ensure"; in fact all of them had taken one. "There you go, doc. Stuff you!!". There is nothing like winding them up a bit.

The sherpas had gone on ahead towards camp 4. Their task was looking complicated because there appeared to be a lot of snow at altitude, and so it turned out as by mid-morning the problems had started: Jamjbu announced that he couldn't go on and that he was turning back towards camp 2. I was quick to applaud his decision. We don't want the guy to feel obliged, and then run into diffuculties. It's not a problem.

Passand and Mingma carried on, and at lunchtime they informed us that they had made it to their destination. It took them 12 hours to get from camp 2 to camp 4. The are tired, naturally, above all because of the large quantity of snow that they encountered but also because of how windy it is. They left some provisions well secured and turned back.  Meanwhile, almost 1000m lower down, Nacho and Ferrán were leading the way towards camp 3. Apparently, the two things which struck them the most on the way were the amount of people (which is good, as the snow will be easier to walk on) and the intense heat (which is bad in terms of dehydration and using up extra energy). Asier and Edurne were following just behind them.  Whilst some of the team were reaching camp 4, the others were arriving at camp 3. They had set themselves the task of setting everything up (all the gear was still in the storage containers) and it wasn't too difficult a job because the temperature wasn't a problem and, above all, because the "beds" had already been prepared, as we told you, during an earlier visit.  Everyone was still in a good mood. Things have all gone as planned, if not better. The only "problem", the situation with Jamjbu, is no longer important because we found out about it in time. We will take this into account when we decide how next to proceed, and I am sure that we will turn it from a disadvantage into an advantage. We just need to make sure that he does not go to pieces now.  Those of us down here began the day with some bad news: we saw a funeral procession pass by right in front of us, and it stunned us all. It turns out that yesterday an 82 year-old Nepalese guy died. He was intending to make it to the top of Everest and become the oldest person to do it. Apparently, when he arrived at camp 1 yesterday he said that he felt unwell and died a few seconds later.  We have been able to chat about it with some of the people that actually bumped into the poor fellow on the icefall. As it turns out, Edurne and Asier exchanged a few pleasantries with him. He apparently made a terrible sight: the old mountaineer was apparently having to drag himself along, helped by a Sherpa who was pulling him and another two who were pushing him. A couple of comments that he made, such as : "I want to die on the mountain!", seem to indicate that he suspected that something was wrong. The guy had apparently been a Nepalese government minister and now he was campaigning for greater care for the elderly.  He was obviously well respected as there were at least a hundred people gathered around his body at the heliport. It is now waiting for an aircraft to come and take it to Kathmandu, as the weather has prevented this from happening today.
 And as those of us at base camp can only advance, we decided to go the the base camp at Pumori. Itziar, "Txo" and I started out determined to set foot on some grass, see some edelweiss and also see the tip of Everest ... but we didn't make it. The weather got worse, it began to snow and, most importantly, we couldn't find the right path. It certainly wasn't for lack of trying: we went up and down crags of all shapes and sizes, followed loads of path markers ... and it simply proved impossible, although we must have been very near. We are going to have another go.  This afternoon, just as Vitor had predicted, it snowed heavily. It wasn't the heaviest snowfall that we have seen since we have been here, but it took as by surprise as it hasn't snowed this heavily for a while. Oh well, it appears to be very slushy and so it won't last long. As soon as the sun comes out ...

During our last radio conversation with camp 3 the guys told me, defiantly, that they are eating the freeze-dried food that I go on so much about. With a bit of luck we will have correctly guessed how they are feeling at this stage of the adventure. If they like it and can keep it down, they will eat it no problem. If not, it is going to be hard for them to take my advice. OK, so admittedly I do go on a bit...  They also told us that it has stopped snowing and now they are enjoying blue skies, the sun is shining, and there are some spectacular views which they are keen to film. Well done Vitor!.
Thanks Josep, for telling us that the quote about good luck is from the book "Good Fortune" by Alex Rovira and Fernando Trías de Bes (it is always better to cite the author, don't you agree?)

And since this phrase has got people thinking, I am going to mention my good friend Cachu. Cachu would like to remember the great Seve Ballesteros who made a similar comment: "The more I train, the luckier I get!".

By Pablo Díaz-Munio Doctor

for the Expedition Challenge 14+1

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A tense calm, as we wait on the weather

Mon, 09 May 2011 00:00:00 +0000

Last night was windy and humid, as if wanting to bid our friends a not so fond farewell. However, at 7:00 am., when the expedition was due to set off, the Sun took control and the task in hand no longer seemed so daunting.
The member of the team who was most raring to go was Nacho, without a doubt. He knows that he is in good shape, that he has prepared and trained well, and he is keen to put himself to the test; so convinced is he of succeeding.
Asier was all smiles as well, in keeping with his character. However, I still say to him "Don't have any doubts, you're ready!"and by the smile on his face I realise that this is exactly what he wants to hear.
Ferrán ... seems more sombre, pensive. In his particular case, it makes no difference what I say to him. Until he gets up there and sees how he feels ... What I have no doubts whatsoever about is that the decision for him to go back down to lower altitude was the right thing to do. He feels better than he did, but will this be enough? I think so, but he is still not sure.
And as for Edurne... she wasn't in a very good mood. She doesn't like getting up early, but that was not the real reason why: the fact is that she is tense and she can't stand being tense. However, I have gotten to know her a little more now and I am sure that she will buck up when she gets to the icefall.
At 10:40 am. Asier rang us to tell us that they had made it to camp 1 without any problems. I reminded them, as I always do, that the most important thing is to drink, eat and get a little rest. And Edurne? I was right, she was charming, all smiles, physically in great shape and joking around with the others. Everything is going according to plan.
By 14:00 they had already made it to camp 2. Their ascent went well, with no major problems, so I am delighted for them. However, I would have preferred them to have got up a little earlier and not to have passed through the Valley of Silence whilst it was so hot.
As we expected, the tents were almost fully intact (just one of the poles had broken which has now been replaced with a spare) and so were our Sherpas. But it appears that the scene which greeted them was horrific: they told us that around twenty tents are now unusable. How important has making the decision to go up and firmly secure the tents when we did turned out to be!!! More than one person here might say "How lucky are these guys!". I, on the other hand, think "How good are these guys!!", seeing as they realised how important it was to go up and do this job in time!!" As I read somewhere recently (I'm sorry but I can't remember who the author was): "you're either lucky, or you're not, but you make your own good luck".
Now that they have all met up at camp 2 (the Sherpas have done their job at camp 3 without any problems), they are resting and settling into the routines of a camp at altitude. This time things are somewhat easier due to the excellent infrastructure which they have Ngati to thank for. Ngati himself is apparently feeling better now ("Thank you, sir. That medicine is very good"; "Ngati strong!"). I for one, however, am not yet completely convinced.
Here at base camp we have been busy doing other things. We normally use the days when the guys are not here to get a shower, do some washing etc. so that we can spread things out a bit and we don't overburden our helpers at the camp.
A tense calm, therefore. We are also waiting to hear what Vitor says – to see if he confirms the forecast that we have for clouds but not much wind.   

  Pablo Díaz-Munio
Expedition Doctor for the 14+1 Challenge

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A nice bit of cod before returning to camp three

Sun, 08 May 2011 00:00:00 +0000

Today we had a 'mass' lunch. We took the cod out of the food store, Asier cooked it and we went to visit Willi and Damian Benegas' expedition. Willi, Damian and their team: Matoco, Leo, Mara... prepared the appetiser, then they made pizza (which was great) and then we had the cod. For dessert we had cake with caramel spread and chocolate. We had a great time in the sun, and everyone was laughing. It was a really nice occasion, the type of occasion that you really enjoy at base camp. The funniest bit was getting the cod which we had cooked from where we are camped over to where they are. Our tents are the first ones that you come to and theirs are the last. We had to walk past all the other tents, which takes about twenty minutes, carrying the cooking pot and leaving behind a really nice aroma. Only we could do this. He!he!he!

Over the last few days the weather has changed considerably. Summer has apparently arrived, the rivers are now flowing through the camp and the glacier is melting. This is good news for us, as the temperature has risen a lot and this is just what we need. Let the warm weather begin so that we can climb Everest!

Talking of climbing, tomorrow (Monday) we are going up to camp 2. This time our aim is to spend the night at camp 3. Tomorrow we will go up to two, and the day after continue up to camp three in order to sleep there. We already know that spending the night at camp three, at 7300 metres, is not going to be easy. The headaches and the cold make it tough, but it will be the final step in our acclimatisation. On Wednesday, if everything goes according to plan, we will be be back at base camp by lunchtime.

Over the next few days we will keep you posted as regards how everything is going. We will be in contact with Pablo via the radio and he will let you know how our ascent up to camp three is progressing. I'll also tell you stuff, communications permitting.

Love]]>

Washing and an agreeable aperitif at base camp

Thu, 05 May 2011 00:00:00 +0000

At around eleven o´clock we prepared some elevenses and people from other expeditions came and joined us. We had a bit of everything: cuttlefish, sardines, cold meats ... and a few bears, all under the beady eye of Pablo who controls us and keeps track of everything that we do. We even provided knives. It was a nice occasion; at this time of day the sun as at its most splendid and it is very pleasant being outside the meeting tents.   We are camped, as I have told you, just next to the pathway and everyone who is trekking stops by. I don't know why everyone comes over to see us, but it is great as you get to meet a lot of people from all over. Today some girls from San Francisco, California came to visit us. They were two really friendly girls who are doing some trekking. Meeting people like this is really great culturally.  The days go quickly at base camp, what with one thing and another. It is very pleasant if the weather is good like it has been today. The sun is going down now and it's cold. People usually go back to their tents to put their evening wear on, and what lovely evening wear it is! The last time that I put on evening wear back home to go to a party was a bit different to what I wear here. I'm now wearing some gigantic boots, pants and a quilted jacket. However, I bet that I will be far more comfortable in this than in the high-heels that I sometimes wear. They are really painful and I don't know how to walk in them. I do like wearing them though, I won't lie to you.  Love ]]>

There is nothing like breakfast at base camp.

Wed, 04 May 2011 00:00:00 +0000

These past four days up at altitude have been long, but to be honest they have done us a lot of good in terms of acclimatisation. By 7 o'clock this morning we had already had breakfast at camp two, and were dreaming of having a shower back at base camp. We began our descent half an hour later. It was really cold and we saw a line of sherpas heading towards camp four, just as we do everyday. It was incredible! I have never seen anything like it. All the sherpas from the commercial expeditions are taking oxygen to the south col, so that it can be taken up to the summit later.

The other day I was surprised when I reached camp two. I knew that this camp was equipped with kitchens, cooks, chairs, tables etc.... but what I saw didn't coincide with how I remembered it. It was another camp, very similar to this one, with all types of amenities. It is surprising how much work is involved for the sherpas in getting all this up here. We bumped into some sherpas, who I no longer know if I should call sherpas or porters at altitude because there are sherpas whose only job is to bring all this stuff up here. You see them weighed down, often carrying bundles which are heavier than they are. I have a lot of admiration for them. What's more, they are always smiling. Every time that we meet we exchange greetings and they call me DIDI, which means big sister in Nepalese. They are incredible. Something else which really surprises is that over the last few days I have seen more Nepalese than westerners. On average, for every twenty Nepalese that we have met we have only met one westerner and as I said, the Nepalese are always friendly and smiling.  We made it to base camp by half past ten, where everyone was waiting for us with open arms. Pablo and the guys from the production company say that they miss us when we are away from base camp. We must be a bit rowdy. As soon as we arrived he had a decent shower and had breakfast. This is the best time of the day. You know that you have done everything as it should be done, and that now it is turn to get a little rest before thinking about our next ascent. We are feeling happy because we have already prepared camp three and our acclimatisation is going perfectly. We are all fine, according to Pablo, and our acclimatisation is perfect.]]>

Everything is going well at camp 3

Tue, 03 May 2011 00:00:00 +0000

Edurne, Nacho and Asier have remained further up the mountain. Today they got up a little earlier than usual and we spoke soon afterwards. They are feeling the cold a little, but have had a good night's sleep.
The plan for today is as follows: Pasang, Mingma and Nacho will go up to camp 3 whilst Edurne, Asier, Ngati and Jambu will do some walking in the surrounding area. Ferrán, however, has come back to base camp feeling weak and having lost his voice. 

Throughout the morning we have been in frequent radio contact as each group reported any incidents. There was hardly anything to report and by midday everybody had done what was required of them. In fact, Nacho told us that the ascent up to camp 3 had been easier than they had expected and that they had prepared the "cots" for the two tents which will have to be put up there. They subsequently stored the cots, securing and marking them correctly.  Ferrán made it safely back to base camp. He confirmed that there had been an enormous avalanche which had started on Nuptse, and had wiped out the ladder on four stretches of the ice fall. We had heard the avalanche but had not seen anything. He's rather tired and has lost his voice, but he is in better shape than I expected. He had a cup of his beloved "milky tea", took a hot shower, put on some warm clothes and then I had a look at him. As I suspected, he made the ascent with an infection of the trachea and this has now got worse and he also has laryngitis, which is very common at this altitude. However, he hasn't got a temperature and hasn't had a temperature at any point. In fact, he assures me that he felt strong when he was up at camp 3. I have prescribed the following treatment: rest, anti-inflammatories, hot sugary drinks and sweets which will stimulate salivation.  

Edurne and Asier sounded in good spirits at camp 2. However, Edurne is a little angry as her oxygen saturation reading is 65%. I don't think that this can be correct and I am not worried by it; yesterday it was 85% and today her pulse is still 56 bpm. She felt fine and was in a good mood ... until she measured her oxygen saturation. The machine needs new batteries, or they have done something wrong, or she was still digesting her food, or they are not telling me the truth ... it could be any of these things. Both Asier and Nachos' readings were fine when they got back to camp 2, in spite of their exertions. However, Jambu still has a cough and Ngati's oxygen saturation is still low (65%).. 

Tomorrow we will all meet at base camp and it will be time to measure parameters and analyse the situation in order to make strategic decisions, taking into account the weather forecasts of course. I have already told them that I am not ruling out suggesting that they come back down to lower altitude in order to improve their oxygen saturations so that they are more comfortable.

We shall see!    

By Pablo Díaz-Munio Doctor

for the Expedition Challenge 14+1

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We are heading for camp two in order to prepare camp three

Sat, 30 Apr 2011 00:00:00 +0000

Everybody is feeling fine and is really up for it. Asier, who is feeling better, will go with us tomorrow and the day after tomorrow the sherpas Jambu, Migma and Passan will head up. The sherpas are not too keen on sleeping at altitude and so they will get there a day later than us. We will then immediately set off towards camp 3.

Today has been relaxed. It has snowed a little, but not too much, and we have used the time to eat, sleep and do a bit of filming. At around 11 this morning I stopped by the kitchen and asked Nati what he was going to make for lunch. He told me that he was preparing chickpeas, and to be honest they do them very well. The sherpas were already eating and I sat down with them. They let me try what they were having – champa with a spicy sauce – and I have to admit that I am getting to like Nepalese food more and more. I remember that when I started coming to this region I didn't like spicy food, but now I can't eat Nepalese food unless it is spicy. I love it, but not too spicy as these guys sometimes go over the top. Sometimes they you can see them actually sweating when they eat. They love it.
After lunch we had a lovely siesta and then we started preparing all the gear for tomorrow: a little food and some goodies to enjoy whist we are up there.
I am writing these few lines to you having had dinner. Earlier on I went outside to see what the weather was like. The sky is full of stars. Fantastic! Tomorrow will be a good day and I will let you all know how difficult it has been to reach camp 2 and how we are getting on.

Love
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It was a pleasure to meet Loretan

Fri, 29 Apr 2011 00:00:00 +0000

I always say that my life has provided me with the opportunity to meet many people, and of course I was fortunate enough to meet Loretan. I think that I was more than fortunate, as I got to know the person behind the sportsman. As a result I admired him even more. Sitting down to a good meal, accompanied by a good wine and in the company of good friends, I had the opportunity to make another friend. It was a strange place to meet him. We didn't talk about the eight-thousanders, or about routes. We talked about our lives, about the way each of us felt about what we were doing, and about how our lives were going. One of the things that made me shed tears, and which is now making it hard to keep them from falling again, was that someone like him, with everything that he had achieved and the way in which he had achieved it, advised me not to pay attention to the comments that people would make after conquering the fourteen eight-thousanders. He told me to enjoy what I had done, that what I had done I had done for me and me alone, and that this is what was important. I took him by the hand and I thanked him. Thanks Erhard! Thank you for making me feel so good, I told him.

All those friends from dinners, skiing, climbing … they will continue doing what they enjoy and what we enjoy, and somehow you will always be with us. From base camp on Everest, where you told me that I would return if I felt that I should, and only if I felt I should, I remind you that I am living and feeling in the way that people like us know how to live and feel. I'm sending you a big hug.

As you can see today is a sad day, or at least a complicated day. It is a day full of memories and plagued with emotions. You remember people who are not here and others that you meet here and there. But life goes on and we have been put on earth to live it, although sometimes it isn't easy. We will carry on here, with the same excitement and feeling passionate about what we do. At last the snow that we were waiting for has arrived. Why do I say 'at last'? Because we thought that it was never going to come after so many forecasts and so many days when it failed to appear. Tonight these small flakes will turn into much bigger ones and there will be more tomorrow, but I hope that it will last just for two days, as the forecasts predicted.

From here on Everest have a good weekend and enjoy it.

Love]]>

Visiting base camp on Pumori

Thu, 28 Apr 2011 00:00:00 +0000

We ran back down to base camp because it was late and lunch is at one o'clock. On the way we met Doctor Morandeira and Doctor María Antonia Nerin who have just arrived at base camp on Everest. It was really exciting! We had been waiting for them. They have been in the Kumbu valley treating an awful lot of people and even performing operations. They are charming. They have come with a film crew because they want to make a film about medicine at high altitudes.

As soon as we arrived at base camp we found out that we had a leaders meeting. Yet another one to prepare the last part of the mountain. The meeting was at 2 pm so I ate quickly and went up to the meeting together with Migueltxo and Jorge . We arrived a little late and they had already started so I stayed in the entrance to listen. I really didn't have much to say. Yet again they have forbidden us to film and so Migueltxo and Jorge were angry, more than anything because nobody can tell us why. You are simply not allowed to film. I don't know if there is something that they want to hide, although I don't think so. All the sherpas have apparently been equipped up to the yellow flags at 7700 metres and they want everything to be prepared before the 30th on the south col, in the last camp at 8000 metres. Then they want all the gear necessary to begin to prepare up to the summit to be on the south col by the 5th of May. I am not sure that this is going to be possible if the weather forecasts turn out to be accurate, but this is what they want to do. Today not all the expeditions went to the meeting, or at least that's what they said as I was listening. I have told them that we will help as much as we can but that we are not going at the same rhythm as they are, and that we cannot do a lot. They more or less understand it and than have said that they will tell us how we can contribute. To be honest I am not too clear about things, but we have offered our help.

As you can see, people are doing things very, very quickly whereas we are taking things bit by bit. Tomorrow I'll tell you whether or not it snows tonight as forecast, or what is happening as I still don't know how things are going to turn out. It is still very cold, which isn't normal for this time of year.

Love]]>

Snow is preventing us from heading up to camp number two

Wed, 27 Apr 2011 00:00:00 +0000

Why am I telling you that I find it hard to make decisions? Because I don't know what to do. According to the weather forecasts tomorrow afternoon it is going to snow heavily. It will continue to snow for a couple of days. This means that if we were to continue our ascent tomorrow as we had planned, we would be caught in bad weather further up the mountain and we would have to turn back. This would not aid our acclimatisation. In fact just the opposite, we would tire ourselves out.

I have also spoken to the sherpas and they are tired as well. 'What should we do?' I ask myself. Nobody dares to say anything. Nobody wants to head up to camp number two. If we don't, then we would have to ascend directly from base camp, missing out camp number one completely, and we would thus be wearing ourselves out for nothing. We are aware that some people from other expeditions have already spent the night at camp number two, and this does inevitably bother us. I always say that you shouldn't worry about what other people are doing and that instead you should worry about yourselves. That's why I said that these are difficult decisions to make. Am I making the right decision or not? I always say that I have to follow my instincts and I think that this is what I am going to do: wait. However, that doesn't mean that I am not worried.

That settles it. I have just passed through the kitchen and seen Migma and Passan. They have also told me that they are a little tired. After all our doubts we have decided to wait. I hope that the forecasts are correct and that it snows tomorrow. If it does then we can relax about things and wait until the 30th before continuing our ascent. Tomorrow we will try and go on a vigorous trek to the base camp of a nearby mountain, Pumori. We will thus have something to do and be training at the same time which will do us good. You might say that I am being a little hesitant but the truth is that it is not easy making the decisions here. I also find it strange when I start sharing them with you. If I am perfectly honest I think about them a lot before writing about them. I am finding it hard not to set off and staying here to think things over. This is a blog. First of all I find it hard to make decisions with the team, and as far as I am concerned I feel as if you are also part of the team.

I am going to bed to carry on turning things over in my head. Have we made the right decision or not? Tonight I am going to sleep on it. Goodnight all.
Love.

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Thinking about camp number 2

Mon, 25 Apr 2011 00:00:00 +0000

We take advantage of these quiet days to do our little jobs: washing, a little reading … whilst the guys from Arena Comunicación carry on with the programme. I hope that you like it as they are putting absolutely everything into it. Last night we got to see the programme a few hours before you did and I personally really liked it. This is just my opinion, but I think that the whole team involved in making the programme is really giving it their best, and it isn’t easy working here. In the next episode you will be able to see how we got everything ready in Kathmandu and just how chaotic a city it is. I still haven’t seen this episode and I don’t know if we will get to see it before you do, but there will definitely be a lot more going on in this one.

Today we had our check-up with the doctor, as we do every two days, and he examined all of us. Due to my cold I didn’t have the best oxygen saturation and so my only option is to drink water in order to improve it. I have being walking around with a bottle of water in my hand all day. Asier is a lot better now, and is almost fully recovered. In a couple of days we will continue our ascent but we are in no hurry. It will depend on the weather, although we will carry on even if the weather isn’t that good

Changing the subject, everyone has been asking, (or many of you have been asking) what happens as regards the rubbish and the waste from the toilets at base camp. Well, today we have been able to see who collects the toilets and how it all works. Every expedition has one or two toilets. What are the toilets like? They are a tent with a can inside. When the can is full, someone comes to collect it and you pay 150 rupees per kilo, which works out at one and a half euros according to the exchange rate. The cans are weighed, collected and taken to Lobuche where they are emptied into septic tanks. It isn’t a pleasant job but it is the only way to keep the place clean. There can be more than 600 people here at the same time. To be honest base camp is very, very clean. The Nepalese government is responsible for this and they are here constantly making sure that there is no rubbish anywhere. The place is perfect to be fair, but we will see just what things are like further up.

A big hug to all of you

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Ham and eggs after being out in the cold

Sat, 23 Apr 2011 00:00:00 +0000

This morning at around five o’clock the hustle and bustle of the sherpas began at camp number one. The sherpas accompanying the commercial expeditions leave base camp very early for camp number one and their arrival woke us up. Watching them arrive is an incredible sight. They carry an incredible amount of gear, some of which I don’t this is entirely necessary up here such as mattresses and heaters … tons of stuff. It is a little surreal to be honest. As soon as we were awake we turned on our little store and started to melt ice so that we could have a quick breakfast before heading back down to base camp. After some milk and biscuits we got dressed and began our descent. It was incredibly cold and as there were a lot of people making their ascent we had to stop on a few occasions to let people pass. At a few of the ladders we had to wait for rather a long time. It was so cold that it was almost unbearable. I then started to wonder what will happen if it is the same on the day that we try to reach the summit. Oh well, for the time being I am not going to worry too much, but today I have suffered with the cold and that sets me off thinking about things.

Asier, Pablo, Jorge, Migueltxo, Itzi and Fernando were waiting for us at base camp with a hearty breakfast. As soon as we arrived we had a couple of eggs and ham. You can’t imagine how much you enjoy this type of meal when you come back down to camp from altitude. When we had finished, Pablo checked us over and we all seem fine. I have pulled a muscle in my neck which is also affecting my back. It hurts a little but I hope that over the next few days whilst we are resting it will get better. The doctor has told me not to move too much today and to keep warm. I don’t quite know how I will do this as it has begun to snow, just as Victor our meteorologist predicted, and I think that it is going to last for a couple of days. Not to worry! I shall spend more time in my sleeping back. I like being in my sleeping bag..

I am now in the kitchen, and am about to go and have dinner. I always come here at nightfall. Nati, our cook, has just made some popcorn and he has offered me some. I refused, as Pablo doesn’t let us eat popcorn. He says that anything with too much salt is not good as it dehydrates us. However, Nati is insisting as he always does (he! he! he!)

Asier is a lot better now. He is almost fully recovered and over the next three days whilst we will be resting here he will be able to complete his recovery. That’s why I am happy. Everything is taking shape and we are now totally immersed in the climbing.

Love

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We have successfully negotiated the frozen waterfall

Fri, 22 Apr 2011 00:00:00 +0000

My rucksack is heavy but it doesn’t matter, as we are now used to that. To begin with the route was as spectacular as it was simple. We stopped after two hours to ring base camp on the orders of Pablo, our doctor, who is watching our every move. We told them that everything was going well. We were able to advance more quickly than we had expected as we encountered hardly any technical difficulties. We easily avoided the difficult patches of ice because the commercial expeditions have left ladders in place to make it easier for so many people to get across without slowing things down or annoying other climbers. The frozen waterfall is very pretty.
 When we had got past the waterfall we stopped to give Pablo the news. The team were feeling really, really positive because we had negotiated the waterfall relatively easily and we had enjoyed it. The rest of the journey to base camp was relatively simple but we were feeling a little tired. Five and a half hours later we reached camp number one. We made it, and this made us feel really happy. When we got there the tents had all been put up ready to sleep in as the sherpas Mingma and Pasang had already erected them. Once inside the tents we talked about our ascent. To start with it was easy, but in the end it has been more difficult than we were expecting. Ferrán is feeling a bit weak. He possibly has a slight temperature due to the ascent and having to push himself. Pablo told us not to worry as it will pass with a little paracetamol.

Tonight will be tough. We are at an altitude of over six thousand metres and the temperature drops considerably. This is normal in the mountains. We are now going to try the liophylisated food which the doctor recommended. It comes highly recommended as your body absorbs it straight away. We shall see how we take to it and tomorrow, telecommunications permitting, I will tell you what our first night away from base camp has been like.

Regards to you all

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Tomorrow we will spend the night at camp number one

Thu, 21 Apr 2011 00:00:00 +0000

Tomorrow, I will tell you more. That is, if I can and if the situation as regards our telecommunications has improved.

Best wishes]]>

I have cried with happiness

Wed, 20 Apr 2011 00:00:00 +0000

Yesterday I didn't write anything to you because I didn't feel too well. I knew that I didn't feel comfortable, that it was my head or a cold, but now I don't think it was either of these things. Yesterday we ended up on our own at base camp because everyone who had come trekking with us up to this point left. I suddenly felt a great void because our friends had gone. Later on, we starting doing the Puga and I sat next to the Lama. Ferrán, Nacho, the sherpas, Jorge, Itziar, Migueltxo and Fernando were all there, and I burst into tears. Why? To be honest I am not sure why. Maybe because I felt this love for what I do. I felt the expedition, I felt the base camp, I felt that I was once again in the Himalayas. This just proved to me that I adore what I do, and that this feeling that I get here is just like being near to or next to the person that you love. I feel happy.

However, I needed somebody at my side. Yesterday Asier had to go down to the valley as he didn't feel well at all. Pablo, Asier and Jambu have left for a couple of days, until Asier feels better. However, I found not having them there in the Puga strange. Something was missing, not all of us were there, despite the fact that the others are not really that bothered about the Puga. The Lama blessed us all and wished us luck. We made the offering to the gods and now we are ready to start heading upward and onward, although we will have to get better first.

Whilst I was feeling so strange yesterday I sat down in front of the computer to write something, but I just didn't feel like it. I spent the time looking at photos of home, talking to the people that I love and that are not here, and reading your messages. You don't know how much you help me. One of them was from Isabel. She told me that she has been diagnosed with cancer and that we are her inspiration. Isabel, from here we send you the greatest energy in the whole world. We are with you, we are going to climb both your Everest and ours together. I am convinced that we can do it. Each step that we take up there will be for you and for people like you, as you are the people that help us and somehow we will climb this together.

Tomorrow it will be sunny because Victor, our meteorologist, says so and because it just will be. The sun needs to shine everyday. Tomorrow Asier, Pablo and Jambu are coming back to base camp and I will let you know how they are. The day after tomorrow we will probably starting heading upward and onward.

Love from the tent at base camp.

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We will soon start climbing

Mon, 18 Apr 2011 00:00:00 +0000

Little by little the camp has taken shape. We still had a few boxes of food that we hadn't opened so today we finally opened them. According to Pablo we have enough food to keep us going here for a very, very long time. We certainly won't be going hungry. In fact, we have a whole host of goodies: yesterday I was able to have cup of hot chocolate with biscuits. It was delicious! I am happy now that our camp is all set up.

The downside is that Asier is in bed ill. He has a bit of a temperature, but it is nothing serious. He hasn't been able to take charge of organising the food, something which he really likes doing, and I think that he is in his sleeping bag driving himself mad wondering just how we have organised everything. I went to see how he was earlier. He asked me how everything had worked out and I told him that it was fine, but that tomorrow he will probably have to give it the finishing touches.

You won't believe this: here I am in the kitchen telling you all that we have a lot of food when a travelling salesman from the valley turns up to offer us milk, sugar, vegetables... It is just like a little town here. We have told him that at the moment we don't need anything, but later on we might need fresh fruit and vegetables. As you can see, here at base camp on Everest you can get everything that you need. In a way I like this because the people from the Kumbu valley can do some business which is good for the whole area.

Tomorrow we will do the Puga so that the gods wish us luck and we will put up the prayer flags around base camp. It is all ready: the chorten, the flagpole for the prayer flags, everything. When we have finished all these preparations we can start climbing, although I think that we are going to delay our departure for another day. I would like us all to be in good shape and today we simply aren't. I hope that we are all feeling better tomorrow.

What hasn't dropped is our morale, and we are still very much up for having a laugh which just goes to show that we will soon be in top form. As I am in the kitchen I am going to ask Nati what we are having for dinner. It looks like we are having soup, as we do everyday, potatoes with meet and vegetables. The food is not bad at all. I am sure that it will all be very good.

A big hug to you all

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First day in the Base Camp

Sun, 17 Apr 2011 00:00:00 +0000

At last we are all settled in. Today has been a really tough day! It is a good job that it was light until 4 in the afternoon and that we could really get stuck into sorting out the base camp. Yesterday we finished putting up the tents for personal use, as these were the most urgent ones so that we had somewhere to sleep. Today we have put up the rest: the communications tent, the production tent for the programme, the electricity, the solar panels. We have basically sorted out all the paraphernalia....apart from the food – we have left that for tomorrow.

We have all had to be seen by Pablo, our doctor, and we all feel a lot better than we did yesterday. Our oxygen saturations are all increasing, which is a good sign as it shows that we are acclimatising. One or two of us still have a bit of a cold, like Ferrán and Asier, but they will be OK in a couple of days. I can hear them outside now sorting out a generator, which just shows how much they are run off their feet.
I said that it has been a complicated day because today I had to go to the expedition leaders' meeting .. and you can't begin to imagine what it was like! For a moment I was on the verge of walking out and going home. It was incredible … almost surreal. Perhaps it's because we have climbed other mountains where there are not so many people, but I am sorry to say that it really, really saddened me.

Yesterday, not long after we arrived, a commercial expedition came and told us that we could not put up our tents in the place where we had just spent an hour working to clear away stones, because this was the pathway for the yaks that were going with them on their expedition. To be perfectly honest I couldn't see any pathway, but we kept quiet and set up our tents as best we could, making sure that this pathway that they had told us about was left clear. As yet no yaks have come through here. I got myself a little worked up, but Pablo told me to calm down. However, I did wonder: Do people here buy the land or what? I have always thought that the moraines at the base camp belong to everybody. I don't know, I suppose I heard it somewhere...

The meeting was incredible. I went with the intention of just listening. As soon as we arrived at the camp where we had arranged to meet, I introduced myself. I felt like the smallest person in the world in front of so many people. I thought, “OK Edurne, you just listen”. The first thing that they have forbidden us to do is film, and so Migueltxo and Jorge have filmed my arrival, but they had to go around the outside of our camp. I went to the meeting on my own. There were about 30 people there but I only knew about 4 of them. I just sat in a corner and I listened. Many of them were leaders of large commercial expeditions. I could feel the tension, an incredible tension, which doesn't occur in other parts of the Himalayas.

They began to talk about ropes, sherpas, about how to equip the route as if they were the ones who were going to do it … when it is the sherpas who do this job. There were hardly any sherpas at the meeting and none of those present said anything. At that point I couldn't stand it any more and I wanted to walk out. It is a good job that Willi Benegas was next to me and he told me to be patient as this is what things are like here. “Like this?” I said to him, “but are we all stupid or what?”

I had no choice but to stay until the end. Nobody gave an inch, everyone was arguing about whether or not they were providing more sherpas to do the work than the others. The point is that we need to take up 52 loads of rope to the camp in 5 days. In each load there are 200 metres of rope. However, nobody would budge. I told them that our team will take up two loads to the camp on two of the days, but it won't be for about ten days because we haven't acclimatised yet. Nevertheless, we will do it. They carried on talking about mountain rescues, about keeping the mountain clean, and warning everybody not to steal oxygen – as you can see, all rather surreal.

When it finished I was the first person to get up. I returned to our base camp, and I don't think that I will be leaving it much either. The furthest I will go is to the frozen waterfall in order to climb it. I am going to focus on Everest and enjoy the team's company, which is what I think is the most worthwhile part of it all.

All we know is that we are going to try and climb Everest without oxygen, we are going to work as a team, collaborate with the other teams as much as we can, look after ourselves, the sherpas, and anyone else who needs it. This is what we understand mountaineering to be all about.

Tomorrow is another day, and it will be a lot more stress-free. We still haven't decided if we will do the puya tomorrow or the day after, it will to depend on the Lama who is here at the base camp. However, as soon as we have done it, we will set off for camp number one.

Love

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At Base Camp al Last!

Sat, 16 Apr 2011 00:00:00 +0000

Best wishes]]>

From Lobuche

Fri, 15 Apr 2011 00:00:00 +0000

We have now reached Lobuche, at an altitude o 4900 metres, and are one day away from the base camp of Everest. You can´t imagine how much we want to reah base camp to be able to relax a little - the whole team really need it. Right now I habe the whole team around me and they are all really, really well. we have had the odd little problem with headaches, but thr are all pretty relaxed. To tell you the truth I am really, really happy.

At the moment in the lodge there are people of all diffeent nationalities. There are probably people from at leaswt ten different countries. I´s incridible. You can hear loads of different languages being spoken, the people are very different, from so many different places, and all of them have the same or a similar objective: to see Everest, to climb Everest ... Our objective is to have a good time and enjoy the mountains, the friendship and the chance to meet people.

We meet people that we know everyday: friends from years ago who we bump into in the Himalayas, friends with whom we have shares many things. In Lobuche I ran into Damian Benegas, a good friend of mine. He and his brother Willi are two very famous Everest guides. They usually bring American clients here to go climbing. I have known them since 2002 and we have done a lot of climbing together not only in this egion, but in the Andes, in Spain and in the United Sates. It was really gret to bump into him.

Tomorrow I will be able to see Willi. They are two of that type of friends that you nly bump into every once in a while, but it is as if you had seen them justa a couple of days ago. I always say that the greatest thing that the mountains have given me are my friends.

Thatss what makes everything that I do worthwhile.

Today has been a short stage of our jouney but we have ascended 700 metres. I was rather worried about this as many of our group have never been at this altitude before, but I am really happy because eveyone is doing fine. However, it has been a difficult day because there are other people who are not having such a good time o things. Pablo, our doctor has been very much in demand. Eveyone has now heard that we have a doctor with us, and just this afternoon he has had to attend five people. Four of them were not serious cases, but there is a çBelgian girl who has a pulmonary oedema in its initial stages and she cant´t be evacuated at the moment. It is almost nightime now and Pablo has a tough time ahead of him with this girl. I hope she can get a good night´s rest now that she has received medication and that tomorrow they can get her down. I told Pablo that whilst we were trekking and at the base camp he was going to be busy, and I wasn´t wrong as he is finding out.

Tomorrow we will reach base camp and from there I will let you know more bout how things are going. If the group keeps on advancin like this we won´t have any problem at all in gettin "home" to base camp. Great stuff!

Love to you all

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We have paid a visit to the Lama in Panboche

Wed, 13 Apr 2011 00:00:00 +0000

We woke up to find ourselves surrounded by a white blanket of snow. Last night when we went to bed it had already started snowing, and this morning the sun was shining. It was all very beautiful. The lodge in which we are staying is in the middle of a small wood and the trees are all covered with snow. It reminded me of one particular day in the Aran valley: I got up to do my training, only to find the wood all covered in white from a nocturnal snowfall. The sun was shining brightly and there was lots of light. I had the feeling of being very far from home but at the same time very near.

Our objective was to reach Periche, which is located at an altitude of 4200 metres. It was a peaceful journey, and it is one that I have done before. The last time I came here was in 2004, when I came with my mother to do some trekking. It was a really enjoyable trip, and now with each place that I pass through I am reminded of the many things that we did together. My mother told me on the phone yesterday that she can remember it all perfectly, and that she was mentally going over our the journey that we were making today step by step. It is a strange sensation. It is the first time that my mother has had some knowledge of where I am trekking or climbing. Up until now she has imagined all the expeditions that I have gone on, but now she actually knows where I am, what it is like, what I can see...I think that she can see the Ama Dablan from her house in the same way that I can right now, because once you have been here to these places for the first time they remain etched in your memory forever.

We stopped in Panboche and visited the Lama so that he could ask the gods to guide us. Jambu, one of the sherpas who has accompanied us on the trekking, (the others have gone ahead to reach the base camp earlier), did not want to pass by the opportunity of visiting the Lama and asking him to ask the gods to help us. You will all be wondering if we believe in all this and if we genuinely go along with it. To be honest, I don't know what to tell you as regards the others, because everyone tends to keep these sorts of beliefs deep inside his or herself. I have been coming to Nepal for over 12 years and have had amazing experiences in this country, perhaps the most amazing experiences of my life. I have always knelt before a Lama, I have lit a candle, I have listened to his prayers and I have even experienced goosebumps or shed tears. So something happens inside me when I am here. For this reason as on previous occasions I, or rather we, have been blessed by the Lama.

The trek from Panboche to Periche takes and hour and a half. On this part of our journey I listened to my music and I kept myself a little apart from the group. I thought about many things on the way, about what I am experiencing here, about what I have left behind at home, about how I feel in one place or another...Whilst I was thinking about all the good things there are about both places I came to the conclusion that I am a very fortunate person, with a zest for life, who wants to carry on enjoying new experiences, enjoying what I do, and that I want to climb Everest. I also thought about all of you, who are following what we are doing day by day. Your company, albeit at a distance, makes every step that we are taking towards Everest worthwhile.

We will continue our advance towards the base camp at Everest excitedly.

With love

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We have seen Everest from Tengboche

Tue, 12 Apr 2011 00:00:00 +0000

There are loads of people in the valley and we have met many groups that are here trekking. We have met mountaineers from Majorca, Catalonia, Madrid, and from the Basque country... The truth is that for a moment it felt like we were at home, or in a street in any of the towns in the Pyrenees. But we are not, we are in Nanche Bazar - it was a funny moment.
This morning we set off very early in the direction of Tengboche. It isn't a very long stage of our journey but it took us around 6 hours. We stopped to take some photos, and to have some tea along the way. The weather isn't all that good, and in the afternoons the clouds cover the tops of the mountains. We have had the odd day of rain, but today we were able to see Everest for the first time – and it did send a little shiver down my spine. When you leave Nanche and begin your ascent, Ama Dablam almost immediately appears. It is a spectacular sight. You fall in love with this mountain as soon as you see it, and I hope to be able to climb it one day. If you advance a bit further the impressive south face of Lhotse comes into view … and above this the final part of Everest appears.

I find admiring Everest from here, so high up, incredible. And to think that we only have another 5000 metres to go until we reach the top! Blimey! Oh well, must keep calm about it all. In the mountains you have to take things one step at a time. At the moment our objective is to reach base camp and suitably acclimatise.
I'm looking forward to reaching base camp now, getting ourselves settled in and starting climbing because these last few days when we have been trekking have got me a little unfocussed, what with so many people in the valley. I know that we are going to climb Everest, but I feel a little strange. I am not too worried though, as I am sure that when we set up the base camp everything will change.

Love. ]]>

I can get a signal in the Khumbu valley

Sun, 10 Apr 2011 00:00:00 +0000

After a flight of around an hour we landed at Lukla airport. It was a bumpy flight as it was very windy, and being a light aircraft the plane moved around too much. To be honest I don't really like these flights. I don't enjoy travelling in those rickety little planes one little bit as I don't feel safe.

As soon as we landed in Lukla we had breakfast, and at around 11 in the morning we set off towards our first objective: Phaking. We made it there in two and a half hours and luckily we just missed getting caught in a heavy downpour which came down soon afterwards.

I hadn't been to the Khumbu valley since 2004, seven years, and the truth is that in some respects it hasn't changed very much. There are more “lodges”, more buildings, a lot more people...The valley is full to the brim of people. All of the lodges are occupied, packed solid. There are tons of people. Fortunately, however, the basic details of the valley haven't changed. The only difference is that you can now get a signal on your mobile, and I think that we will even be able to get one as far as the the base camp at Everest. It is incredible to see that there is no electricity, unless you have generators or solar panels, the majority of the houses are without running water and the people have to go to the village fountains to get it, yet at the same time you can see any one of the natives talking on their mobile phones. It takes a while to get your head around it!

All of us taking part in the expedition are very well, as are all our friends who have come with us to do the trekking. We are already at an altitude of 3400 metres and nobody is suffering from headaches and everybody feels fine. We will have to wait and see how we all get through the night.

As regards me personally, I am much calmer. I feel a lot more involved in the expedition and as time goes by I feel a lot more relaxed. Today I was talking to Pablo, our doctor, and he told me that he can see that I am a lot more relaxed. He thinks that I have been a bit worried, as I seemed very tense to him. Things are coming together little by little. It's great to be finally getting into the expedition!!!

Tomorrow we are going to spend the day in Nanche, resting, and this will do us good in terms of acclimatisation. However, we won't be sitting around doing nothing, as we are going to explore the surrounding area in order to keep ourselves moving. Today hasn't been all good: we have been caught in a couple of downpours and now, as I am writing, I can hear drops of water on the glass behind me. It is nice and warm in the “lodge” though. The truth is that I am starting to enjoy all of it as I have been meeting old friends and I enjoy that. We bumped into Valeri Babanov, who we climbed Dhaulagiri with in 2008. I like chatting with him. He asked me what I was doing here again, as I had told him that after the 14 eight-thousanders I was going to stop. However, what I liked most was the way in which he said goodbye. He said to me “Edurne, in life there are many other things apart from climbing. Try and enjoy them”. For someone like Valeri to say this to me makes it all the more special because he is somebody who has done so many important things.

As you can see, things are really taking shape and we are starting to enjoy the mountains.

A bit hug to all of you.

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We are setting off for Everest

Fri, 08 Apr 2011 00:00:00 +0000

Today has been our last day in Kathmandu, and to be honest we haven't really done very much. Yesterday we finished preparing the loads and just had to buy a few more bits and pieces at the last minute. We are finally going to set off for Lukla, where the 8 days of trekking begins. We will have to get up really early. We are being collected at 6 in the morning because our flight to Lukla leaves at 8. The flight only lasts for about an hour, but it always seems like the longest hour in the world to me as I don't like flying in those precarious little planes. They don't usually hold more than 20 passengers and they are a little on the old side. Personally I don't like this particular flight at all. Landing in Lukla is very dangerous.

The airport is situated halfway up a hillside and has a very short runway. At least it has now been tarmacked, but it wasn't like that ten years ago when I first came. Tomorrow will be a short day as we are only going to walk for around 3 hours towards Phakding. It will be our first contact with the Kumbu valley, and it will do us good to have a break from all the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu. I can see that the team are really motivated and happy, and I think that from now on things will get better as we will be totally focussed on the expedition; we will need to be. As regards myself, I don't really know where I am up to. These last few days in Kathmandu have been a bit mad with all the preparations. They have, in many ways, been similar to the last few days that I spent at home. I think that I need to start trekking as soon as possible and stop thinking about everything else apart from Everest and everything that we have done and prepared. We will keep you up to date with how the trekking is going on a daily basis

Love.

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Everything in Kathmandu is ready to set off and start trekking.

Thu, 07 Apr 2011 00:00:00 +0000

It seems like we are making progress, little by little. This afternoon we finally got the cargo out of the airport. It wasn't easy, but we have at last been able to check everything that we had sent over. During the day we also made sure that all the material that we had here in storage was OK, all the tents, pans, stoves etc. Some of the tents had to be repaired because they had the odd hole, and a few of the zips were a bit the worse for wear, but now everything has been sorted out and is ready.

The cargo which arrived today practically didn't need touching as it had all been very well calculated and weighed, we just had to take out the material that we need to do the trekking. The rest of it can be left as it is until we reach the base camp.

Afterwards we went to the Kailas hostel to see the children. What a wonderful experience! They are on holiday until the 17th of this month, and so we were able to spend the morning playing with them and stay with them during lunch.

I got to see Pemba, the girl who I sponsor, and she played host for us at the hostel. She showed everyone who had not been to the hostel before around – the bedrooms, the kitchen, the dining room and everything. Right now I think that being able to help these children is one of the things that gives me the greatest satisfaction out of everything that I do.

When you see them in the hostel, all happy and enjoying a better life than they could ever have previously imagined, you see why all our efforts have been worthwhile.

However, we have noticed that the hostel is in need of a few repairs. I have already arranged with Asier that when we come back from Everest we are going to make a list of everything that needs doing. Perhaps in September we will come back on a flying visit with a team of volunteers, that is if people want to sign up. We will fix up a few things and make everything a bit better, although I must stress that it is all in pretty good shape. I would love you all to be able to see the children and meet them, because it is when you see the project and what is being done that you believe in it.

Tomorrow is the last day here in Kathmandu before we set off on Saturday for Lukla, where we start trekking towards the base camp. We still have one day left to relax as almost everything has been done, although today when I was having dinner I realised that I still have one or two little things to buy, but nothing important.

Over the past few days we have ran into many friends in Kathmandu who we hadn't seen for a long time. Mario Merelli, for instance, an old Italian friend with whom I have climbed a few eight-thousanders including Everest in 2001. At the Thamserku agency we also met Carlos Pauner and Javi, with Juanito Oiarzabal and Juanjo Garra. They are going to Lhotse.

We also bumped into some friends from Elche who are going up Everest, but they are going up the North face through Tibet, and a group of Chilean friends who are going to Shisa Pagma. We had a reallyy nice get-together with them, as they wanted information from us about the route that we took last year to Shisa Pagma. It was really lovely to meet them all again. We wish them all the luck in the world as they begin their ascents. May each of them achieve their goal and, above all, may they enjoy it. Let's hope that we can meet up again for a few beers here in Kathmandu upon our return.

Love to you all.

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The cargo is now in Sondika

Mon, 28 Mar 2011 00:00:00 +0000

The countdown has begun. In just over a week I will be meeting up with all the team in Madrid - but before then there are plenty more things to do; nothing can be left to chance. We now have a date for undergoing the appropriate medical examination. It is very important to find out all the information that your body provides before undertaking something as physically challenging as going up to the top of Everest. Pablo, the doctor for the expedition, has been keeping a careful eye on me. He has told me that I need to do a lot of cycling, at a slow but constant pace. What he doesn't realise is that I don't have a minute to spare with everything that I have to do.
Still, I am trying to do what he says - I have got down to what I think is my ideal weight, or what Pablo thinks is my ideal weight, although I don't know if I have lost the weight through training or through stress - I think it is due to the latter. I have been training well lately, although I have had to combine the job of preparing for the expedition with having an unexpected cold. Thankfully I have almost got over it now. I need to be very careful from now on as the 4th of April is just around the corner and this is a journey which needs to be undertaken in peak condition.
Today I have received some good news. The publishing house Planeta phoned to say that they have started to produce the second edition of my book “Fourteen times eight-thousand”, so now we can get on with the expedition. The book is turning out to be a success and a foreign publishing house is willing to translate it. It looks as though things are not turning out too badly at all!!

This weekend I have been in Andorra. Via the 'Mountaineers for the Himalayas' Foundation we had organised a mountain skiing trip and 15 people took part. It was a trip in support of the foundation and everyone had a really good time, myself included. We have also given further impetus to the foundation, and little by little we are doing more and more things.

We are now into the final strait - this week will be full of meetings, a press conference and goodbyes. It won't be easy.]]>

Preparing the barrels

Fri, 18 Mar 2011 00:00:00 +0000

At last I have finished promoting my book 'Fourteen Times Eight Thousand'! Thank you to all the people and all the media who have supported me during these three very intensive days when I have been in both Madrid, Barcelona and my home, San Sebastian. Only I would decide to embark upon a book whilst I am in the middle of organising an expedition to climb Everest, but it is finished now and in hindsight it has turned out to be the right move.

I can think more clearly again now, but the pressure is also starting to get to me. When I went back home to my parent's house in Tolosa yesterday, after the lastest interview with ETB, I didn't waste a minute. I rang Asier to start on the barrels and all of the material for the expedition. We had already purchased the provisions a while ago and we had them all piled up in a little “den” which my parents have in their home. Idoia and my father, two of the many vital supporters of the expedition, gave us a hand. Each barrel can not weigh more than 25 kilos, which is the maximum that the Sherpas are permitted to carry up to the base camp. Fitting all of the food into the barrels is like doing a puzzle. You have to combine the heavy parcels with the light ones so that the maximum empty space is filled, as everything moves around in transit and if things are not tightly packed they get broken during the journey.

This is usually Asier's and my father's job. They never get tired of it. They always start off by agreeing on how to do everything, but that never lasts for long. My father is not known for his patience (he's like me), and wants to finish things off quickly whilst Asier wants everything done to perfection. It is the same story on all of the expeditions, although it is always good natured banter. They are like children! I don't get involved, I just laugh at them. They are both very meticulous in what they do and always end up agreeing on how things should be done. Over the weekend we will prepare all the barrels and the material which is left. The cargo has to be ready for the 24th of this month at Bilbao airport. I am getting a bit nervous now, or rather I am already nervous. But I think I like that – my nerves are a sign that I am excited, just like on previous occasions.

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On tour before climbing Everest

Wed, 16 Mar 2011 00:00:00 +0000

The date for setting off on her new expedition to Everest is approaching and Edurne Pasaban is getting anxious. Whist finishing off the preparations, she has the further challenge of organizing her busy schedule around the presentation of her book about the fourteen eight-thousanders.

In order to be Edurne Pasaban, you need to have been born with your boots on - your mountain boots. There are sports that people take up by chance and others which, like a magnet, attract their enthusiasts with an irresistible force. This is precisely what happened to this basque mountaineer whose whole adolescence revolved around mountains and the higher the better. Moreover, she has remained dedicated to mountaineering ever since, out of love. This is how she describes her passion for mountaineering in 'Fourteen times eight thousand', a passion which literally developed out of love.

An Italian mountaineer, Silvio Mondinelli, was the reason why she returned to the Himalayas following a tough first expedition in 1998. It was during this first expedition, which failed to reach the summit of Dhaulagiri, that she fell in love with Mondinelli despite the fact that he was married. Edurne explains that her comments in subsequent interviews, where she stated that it was a love story that led her to dedicate her life to mountaineering, have always been interpreted as something metaphorical. The release of her book has thus provided her with the perfect opportunity to set the record straight.

Her future seemed destined to be inextricably linked to the family business, with 'Talleres Pasaban' to be her place of work, although what she really wanted to do was become a Fitness Instructor. However upon failing the entrance tests for the course, which she had not prepared for, she decided to enrol on and study for an Industrial Engineering degree. She started working at the business run by her father at the end of the nineties, but was already clear in her own mind that she wanted to climb the mountains of the Himalayas. It was there that she would meet Silvio. It was also whilst she was there that she would take the decision to return the following year. This second expedition inspired her to undertake a third, the destination of which was Everest, and more were to follow.

In 'Fourteen times eight thousand', Edurne Pasaban talks about the acclimatisation camps situated at different altitudes on the world's highest mountain. Due to all the expeditions which have taken place, and the impact of the media, these camps have become almost like the living rooms of a 'home from home' for the neophytes in this field. However, it is whilst reading her narration that one becomes aware of the harshness of this environment, of its inhospitable nature above all at certain altitudes, such as camp 44 - situated at a height of 8000 metres.

The good times and the bad times

But even in the most adverse conditions there have been enjoyable moments. For example, when she talks about the advanced base camp or camp number 2:

“And there is always someone that you meet, a Sherpa, or a guide from a commercial expedition,

who stops you, who invites you to have tea.

Such minimal social interaction is, at such times, an real luxury”.

She also relives the emotion that she felt when she met Sir Edmund Hilary in person, or the cast from the programme “Al filo de lo imposible” (“Verging on the impossible”), who she considers to be legends. There is also the story of the journey that she made with her mother to the foot of Everest where they both went trekking. This basque mountaineer has written a genuine waybill of a sport which has enabled her to make her living in the same was as if she had continued in her previous profession. She covers in detail what it takes to organise an expedition, looking for sponsors to finance the costs involved and pay for the permits required to climb, in addition to recognising the work of the Sherpas, the indispensable guides and the hospitality of the Nepalese people, who she has helped through Non-Governmental Organisations.

Neither does she omit the bad times: the deaths of friends and colleagues such as Pepe Garcés, the macabre landscape which human remains have become a part of - the remains of those who failed to conquer the mountains and who were conquered by them, those who are now condemned to remain at altitude forever due to the impossibility of staging a rescue. She recalls having seen a mountaineer fall into the abyss less than one hundred metres away from where she was. There is also the revelation of another bad moment in her personal life – the end of her three year relationship with Silvio – who decided to rebuild his marriage in Italy. Climbing her first eight-thousander without Silvio, Cho Oyu, was thus a real acid test for Edurne.

In her book, Edurne Pasaban takes the reader on a journey though her fourteen eight-thousanders undertaking two expeditions per year: one in spring and the other in autumn, with the exception of those to the Karakorum mountain range in Pakistan which were tackled in summer.

The five peaks of Karakorum (the two of Gasherbrum, Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak and K2) are in Pakistani territory, in some cases on the border with the Chinese province of Sinkiang, whilst the nine peaks of the Himalayas are in Nepalese territory: (Dhaulagiri, Manaslu and Annapurna), on the border between Nepal and India (Kangchenjunga), on the Nepalese border and in the Chinese province of Tibet (Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu); one (Shisha Pangma) is entirely in China.

It was in 2004 that the team from “Al filo ...” contacted her regarding climbing K2, the most technically complicated summit for a mountaineer and the one which has proved to be the most deadly. This is perhaps one of the worst ascents that Edurne recounts, reliving the tension experienced by the expedition both during the ascent and the desent, when both the life of Juanito Oiarzábal and her own were in danger.

The point of inflection

Edurne Pasaban pauses in her story to bravely recall one of the worst moments of her life, which occurred in 2006. Being one of the best mountaineers in history did not prevent her from suffering an internal conflict within herself, a conflict with her most intimate fears which resulted in her admission to a psychiatric unit for four weeks and a subsequent attempt at suicide. Conquering the highest summits on the planet did not stop her from experiencing a sense of alienation from others, people from whom she required both attention and recognition. She overcame this difficult period in her life and continues to conquer summits to the present day: last year she climbed Anapurna and thus completed her fourteen eight-thousanders. Whilst continuing to climb she pays heed to her own sense of caution when she senses that something is not right on the mountains. As time goes on she has bid farewell to other friends and mountaineers who have given up this path that she has taken.

Already prepared for her next expedition to Everest, this time without oxygen, and confirmed as the first woman to conquer the fourteen peaks measuring over eight thousand meters found on the planet, Edurne Pasaban not only recounts her experiences during 12 years of mountaineering but also pays homage to the mountains, where people push themselves to their limit.

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Nervous to 39 days before the expedition

Wed, 23 Feb 2011 00:00:00 +0000

It is 11:30 pm and I have just logged on to the web-page which is telling me that there are 39 days left before the expedition sets off. My mailbox is full of emails with questions, doubts, issues, interviews and there are only 39 days left.
I don't know what to do: turn off my computer and get a good nights sleep or start working until I eventually fall asleep (he! he!)
The first thing that I have decided to do is to tell you all about it, and I am not sure why. Perhaps it is because by doing this I will be writing something in the blog, and also because doing this will enable me to relax a little.
We have entered the final strait in the run up to the expedition, and things are taking shape nicely. I have some very good news for you – we now have a programme on TVE 2 for this expedition. You will be able to follow the experiences of the 'Everest without O2' expedition on a weekly basis via a 25 minute programme. I can't yet confirm dates or times but I will let you know them soon.
We are already filming the first episode which will cover all of our preparations: how we train, how we deal with the logistics of it all. You will be able to see not just how excited but also how stressed out we get. Our aim, and I think that we will achieve it, is to show you just how all this is organised, how we live though it, and how many people take part in an expedition of this type.
Whilst preparing for the expedition we are also filming the many things that are happening in our lives before we set off. It is now that I realise just how many things are going on, and just how much our daily lives are totally centred around this one experience. This does frighten me a little somehow, because I start to think that we don't know how to do anything else apart from organise expeditions - but this is what we love doing.
At other times I wonder if by getting myself so wrapped up in a project like this am I not pushing other problems out of my mind – problems that I don't want to face up to or that frighten me? I don't honestly know. What I do know is that I really enjoy doing what I am doing and that I am happy – so it can't be that bad.
I will try, during the time remaining before we set off, to keep you up to date with how things are going and what we are up to. For now, I just wanted to let you know that the project is up and running, that we are filming the first episode of the programme. We are also finishing off preparing the material, food and other stuff that we are going to need for the expedition.
Thanks to all of you for always being there for me. Thank you also because, although I don't write very often, I am constantly receiving your messages of support. I want you to know that I read them all and that nights like these (which many of us have), when you are tired and you begin to question everything that you do, are more easy to get through with the affection that you send me.
A big hug to all of you.
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Thanks for supporting me

Wed, 02 Feb 2011 00:00:00 +0000

Hi everyone,

Firstly, like on so many previous occasions, I have to start by thanking you all. As a result of your votes I have received the "People's Choice Adventurer of the Year" award from that prestigious institution National Geographic.

I have received votes not just from Spain but from all over the world, something which both thrills but also surprises me. Here in my own country I have learned many things, above all that I am both appreciated and valued by you all, but it has come as a surprise to learn that people in other parts of the world think the same way. Doesn't this surprise all of you as well?

This prize is as much mine as it is my team's. It also belongs to all those people who have been there at my side, helping, encouraging and supporting me. Great things are not achieved without great people, without great teams.

Last week I was in the United States working. I was giving conferences and meeting a lot of interesting people who are helping me with many of the new projects that I am considering undertaking. It was during one of these meetings with National Geographic that I learnt that I had won this award. It was a wonderful feeling, especially as I was abroad and so far away from home. I would like to be able to share this feeling with all of you.

When I arrived home, before I had even had time to adapt to the time difference, I received a call from the Spanish National Sports Council (CSD). The current Secretary of State, who I think so highly of, told me that I have been awarded the Reina Sofia prize for the best sports-person of the year. I don't know what else could possibly happen to me now. What more could anyone ask for? My mother rightly says that I should always keep my feet firmly on the ground, and you should always listen to your mother. The thing is that sometimes it seems as if I am floating in the clouds – I hope I know how to handle all this, and that I can repay you all appropriately.

Over the years I have received a lot of affection and support from the National Sports Council (CSD). The have always believed both in our sport and in me personally, something which has been particularly important. I only have words of thanks and affection for the whole National Sports Council team as that is exactly what they have given me.

Finally I have to thank all of my team – it is because of them that I am who I am. It is also thanks to them that I have fulfilled my dream of conquering the fourteen eight-thousanders, and that all the dreams that I could possibly wish for are being fulfilled.

The team and I are already excitedly and energetically preparing our new project for spring: the expedition to Everest without the help of oxygen. With this expedition I hope to end the cycle of the eight-thousanders, and I also hope to be able to share it with you via TVE – the Spanish television company. I will keep you all posted – there are only 60 days left until we set off again.

But until then I will keep you up to date with all the details of this new adventure.

A big hug, and thanks for being there for me.

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Merry Christmas and Happy New Year

Thu, 23 Dec 2010 00:00:00 +0000

Hi Everyone.

The last few days have been hectic, but also pleasant and enjoyable. The truth is that ending the year like this is great fun.
Last Sunday we were lucky enough to be able to make an incredible helicopter flight along the whole Aran Valley (Valle de Aran), which at present is my second home since I am spending lots of time there training. Thanks to our friends from Heliski Pyrenees we were able to film some great scenes throughout the whole valley in preparation for a new television project for next spring. This is a really great project that we are very excited about, and we think that you will like it a lot.

Monday was a magical day. I visited the Juan XXIII foundation (Fundación Juan XXIII). When you get to know foundations such as this one, which aim to find jobs for people with mental disabilities, I begin to wonder if what I do means anything at all. They wanted me to go and talk to them about effort, about perseverance….but how was I supposed to talk to them about this when they are the perfect example of perseverance, excitement, and hard work that I have ever seen. I have even been lucky enough to be made a patron of the Foundation – is there any greater gift than this? There are days when it is worth being the “public face” of something, when you can help in some way, or make somebody smile, or cry with joy. Thank you for making me happy.

We are now in the home straight of 2010. Over the last few days I have been giving a lot of interviews and they have asked me to sum up this year that is coming to an end.
It has been a year full of dreams, of great recognition, during which one of my life projects – that of the eighteen-thousanders, has come to an end. I am still winning awards and recognition, such as the latest prize from National Geographic for the best adventurer of the year. It is a popular prize and thus depends on whether or not you wish to vote for me. You only have to follow the link: http://adventure.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/adventurers-of-the-year/vote/

I feel happy, happy to have taken, at a crucial moment in my life, that decision to do what I love doing – climbing mountains. Over these last 10 years not all the Christmases have been like this one; there have been better ones and many others far worse. But this year will be a good one, that is if my nephew comes out of hospital soon because he is very ill. If not, we will spend Christmas at the hospital by his side, waiting for 2011 which I am sure will bring us all many good things.
Amongst all of you who read my webpage, there will be some of you who smile every day, those of you who smile from time to time and those of you who find it harder. I would love to be able to do everything it takes to make you all smile, but for the time being, albeit a small gesture, I would like to send you all the biggest and best hug possible, full of sincerity and affection.
From the bottom of my heart I wish you all a very merry Christmas.

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In collaboration with Kukuxumusu, we present the official T-shirt for the 14 eight-thousanders

Thu, 02 Dec 2010 00:00:00 +0000

I did promise that little by little I was going to keep you posted about other stuff, such as how my training is going, where I am giving a conference etc...

Well, I'm going to keep you up date with things on a weekly basis. I have already started training in the Pyrenees with skis, and the truth is that everywhere is absolutely beautiful. I can feel that this is going to be a good year and that we are all going to enjoy it.

However, today I want to let you all know about something which I am very excited about. You all know the company Kukuxumusu which for years has designed all those drawings that we all like so much. Well, Kukuxumusu has always collaborated with the 14x8000 project and I would like to take this opportunity to thank them for this – Thank you for all those designs and above all for your friendship and kindness.

Now as they are such great people they have also designed an official t-shirt for the 14 eight-thousanders. They have come up with a really attractive t-shirt that I am thrilled with, and we are going to hold a presentation for it on the 14th of December (17:00) in the Kukumusu shop on calle La Cruz (La Cruz street) in Bilbao.

The mystery design will be revealed at 5 pm. (17:00) at a function that I'll be taking part in, together with my good friend Koldo Aiestaran (the managing director of Kukuxumusu).

Afterwards I will be delighted to sign and dedicate t-shirts to all those who turn up.

You are all invited to come to the presentation and to share with me this small dream of having a commemorative t-shirt for the 14 eight-thousanders.

I'll see you on the 14h of December in Bilbao.
Regards.]]>