EVERYTHING IS GOING WELL AT CAMP 3

May 03

Edurne, Nacho and Asier have remained further up the mountain. Today they got up a little earlier than usual and we spoke soon afterwards. They are feeling the cold a little, but have had a good night’s sleep.

The plan for today is as follows: Pasang, Mingma and Nacho will go up to camp 3 whilst Edurne, Asier, Ngati and Jambu will do some walking in the surrounding area. Ferrán, however, has come back to base camp feeling weak and having lost his voice.


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WE ARE HEADING FOR CAMP TWO IN ORDER TO PREPARE CAMP THREE

Sherpas en el comedor expand
Apr 30
Sherpas en el comedor
We are going to continue our ascent. At last it seems that the time has come! The weather is not very stable, but I think that it will hold out so that we can make it to camp two. Our intention is to spend at least three nights at camp two, and then make it to camp three so we can put the tents up. First thing tomorrow we will head directly for camp two, which is situated at 6400 metres.

IT WAS A PLEASURE TO MEET LORETAN

EDURNEPASABAN895_DSCN1802 expand
Apr 29
EDURNEPASABAN895_DSCN1802

This morning during breakfast we remembered what day it was. Today is not a very happy day. It is exactly a year since our friend, Tolo Calafat, lost his life whilst climbing Annapurna. From there you can see practically all the Himalayas, and there we have also lost other friends such as Iñaki Ochoa de Olza. They are always with us in our hearts and on our climbs. So it was a sad breakfast, and things got worse later on. When I had finished I sat down at the computer, as I do everyday, to check the weather forecasts which we are so worried about and the news was no better. The first mail was devastating: Erhard Loretan has died. Whaaaaaaaaat? I couldn’t believe it. Loretan!!! All of us mountaineers knew Loretan because of what he has achieved in life through mountaineering. Many people, myself included, both admired and idolised him.

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VISITING BASE CAMP ON PUMORI

Apr 28

Well, I am in good spirits. Today I went to the base camp on Pumori, as I told you, to do some trekking and the view from up there is incredible. You can see the whole route to Everest right up to the top. It is a really, really beautiful place. It was just what I needed to establish exactly what kind of shape I am in after a few days with a sore throat, and to be honest I felt really good. I am happy.

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SNOW IS PREVENTING US FROM HEADING UP TO CAMP NUMBER TWO

Apr 27
It is very difficult to make decisions on a day like today. I have not been in a situation like this for a long time. At around nine this morning our sherpas set off for camp number two. Soon afterwards they rang us on the walkie-talkie to tell us that they were turning back, as it was impossible to reach camp number two due to the amount of snow that had fallen over the last few hours. During the night it snowed a lot at base camp, but apparently it snowed much more higher up the mountain. They left the gear at camp number one and turned back. Later on in the day it was apparently possible to reach camp number two, but as our guys set off really early they didn’t think that it would be.

THINKING ABOUT CAMP NUMBER 2

Apr 25

These days of rest can seem long at base camp, but they are doing us a lot of good. In the mornings we are having a bit of sunshine and in the afternoons, at around midday, we are getting some snow. According to the forecast it will be like this for a few more days. At the moment I still don’t know what our short term plan will be.

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HAM AND EGGS AFTER BEING OUT IN THE COLD

Tramo de escaleras expand
Apr 23
Tramo de escaleras

We have now returned from camp number one. Having rested and had something to eat I can now tell you how our night was at camp number one. It wasn’t one of the worst nights that I have spent at altitude to be honest. I almost didn’t have any headache to speak of and I slept well. I have been told that it was one of the coldest nights that there has been since we came to Everest, but I didn’t even notice. At base camp the thermometer registered 17 degrees below freezing but I don’t know how cold it was in camp number one – probably colder.

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WE HAVE SUCCESSFULLY NEGOTIATED THE FROZEN WATERFALL

Apr 22

Last night I could hardly sleep. I was nervous because the real climbing was about to begin. I got up early and after breakfast we checked all the gear that we were taking with us to camp number one. At around quarter past seven this morning we said goodbye to Pablo and Asier and started our journey to the frozen waterfall. I was really nervous! Ferrán, Nacho and I had loaded the crampons, the ice axes, the harnesses and the rucksacks… everything that we needed to spend the night at camp number one. The sun coming out over base camp was our signal: it was time to set off. At that moment I felt a small shiver of happiness. As I have told you many times, the mountains hold many memories for me and this morning they all came flooding back.

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TOMORROW WE WILL SPEND THE NIGHT AT CAMP NUMBER ONE

Apr 21

Today has been a very complicated day as regards telecommunications. I don’t know what has happened but the satellite phones are hardly working. It is very difficult to get a signal, although I have managed to send these few lines. I am feeling really positive today because Pablo and Asier have now returned to base camp. I am really happy to be honest. Maybe it is because tomorrow we are going to head up to camp number one to spend the night there. Ferrán, Nacho and I will go. Asier is a lot better and is getting stronger, but we would rather he stayed here with the doctor at base camp. It is the most logical thing to do as he needs a few more days here to rest and we still have time. I am really excited to be honest that tomorrow we are leaving base camp. We will have a change of scene and we will then be at an altitude of over six thousand metres to continue with our acclimatization.

Tomorrow, I will tell you more. That is, if I can and if the situation as regards our telecommunications has improved.

Best wishes

I HAVE CRIED WITH HAPPINESS

Apr 20

We watched the first episode in the tent at base camp. I had already seen it in Kathmandu, and I wasn’t altogether sure that I wanted to see it again here. I don’t know why exactly. Perhaps it is because sometimes, when you listen to yourself talking, you discover things about yourself that you are not sure if you like or not. But I was OK watching it, and the following phrase has stuck in my mind: “I think that I am in love with the mountains and with what I do”. And just why am I telling you this again? This is why:

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