It is very difficult to make decisions on a day like today. I have not been in a situation like this for a long time. At around nine this morning our sherpas set off for camp number two. Soon afterwards they rang us on the walkie-talkie to tell us that they were turning back, as it was impossible to reach camp number two due to the amount of snow that had fallen over the last few hours. During the night it snowed a lot at base camp, but apparently it snowed much more higher up the mountain. They left the gear at camp number one and turned back. Later on in the day it was apparently possible to reach camp number two, but as our guys set off really early they didn’t think that it would be.

Why am I telling you that I find it hard to make decisions? Because I don’t know what to do. According to the weather forecasts tomorrow afternoon it is going to snow heavily. It will continue to snow for a couple of days. This means that if we were to continue our ascent tomorrow as we had planned, we would be caught in bad weather further up the mountain and we would have to turn back. This would not aid our acclimatisation. In fact just the opposite, we would tire ourselves out.
I have also spoken to the sherpas and they are tired as well. ‘What should we do?’ I ask myself. Nobody dares to say anything. Nobody wants to head up to camp number two. If we don’t, then we would have to ascend directly from base camp, missing out camp number one completely, and we would thus be wearing ourselves out for nothing. We are aware that some people from other expeditions have already spent the night at camp number two, and this does inevitably bother us. I always say that you shouldn’t worry about what other people are doing and that instead you should worry about yourselves. That’s why I said that these are difficult decisions to make. Am I making the right decision or not? I always say that I have to follow my instincts and I think that this is what I am going to do: wait. However, that doesn’t mean that I am not worried.
That settles it. I have just passed through the kitchen and seen Migma and Passan. They have also told me that they are a little tired. After all our doubts we have decided to wait. I hope that the forecasts are correct and that it snows tomorrow. If it does then we can relax about things and wait until the 30th before continuing our ascent. Tomorrow we will try and go on a vigorous trek to the base camp of a nearby mountain, Pumori. We will thus have something to do and be training at the same time which will do us good. You might say that I am being a little hesitant but the truth is that it is not easy making the decisions here. I also find it strange when I start sharing them with you. If I am perfectly honest I think about them a lot before writing about them. I am finding it hard not to set off and staying here to think things over. This is a blog. First of all I find it hard to make decisions with the team, and as far as I am concerned I feel as if you are also part of the team.
I am going to bed to carry on turning things over in my head. Have we made the right decision or not? Tonight I am going to sleep on it. Goodnight all.