"the smallest of the fourteen, but the most difficult one for me. After four failed attempts, the fifth attempt could see me completing the
14 eight-thousanders. An unforgettable memory. We attack the summit from camp 4 up an alternative route that Iñaki Ochoa de Olza had told me about. We had a great climb."
First ascent: span> it was conquered for the first time in 1964 by the Chinese climber Xǔ Jing and nine Tibetans who made up the expedition.
At 8,027 metres, Shishapangma (officially Xixabangma), also known as Gosaithan, is the smallest of the 14 peaks over 8,000 metres. Its name in Tibetan means "crest above the grassy plains", while its Hindu name Gosaithan means "abode of the god."
Of the 14 peaks over 8,000 metres, Shishapangma is the only one completely located in the region of Tibet, more specifically in the Langtang National Park, north of Kathmandu. The absence of large peaks around it makes its steep and rocky south face stand out majestically.
It was conquered for the first time in 1964 by the Chinese mountaineer Xǔ Jìng and another nine Tibetans who made up the expedition.
It was not climbed again until 1980, due to bans imposed by the Chinese authorities, which were removed in 1978.
Climbed following its most accessible route, along the north face, it is considered one of the "easiest" eight-thousanders to ascend. You can reach the base camp at 5,000 metres by car. There are much more demanding routes on the south-east face of the mountain, routes reserved only for very high-level climbers. Around
21 people have died climbing the mountain.
Peak reached by Edurne Pasaban on 17 May 2010
Edurne: I ask myself what I have achieved. Whether climbing the
14 eight-thousanders is worth anything, or is a useless thing to have done.
I am sure that yes, it has all been useless. However, it has been wonderful. It has meant years of my life that I wouldn't have changed for anything, years that I've lived to the full. It's how I've chosen to live. This is why they are beautiful years, because they are mine.
The first person in the world to climb the
14 peaks over 8,000 metres high.
"Your fourteen eight-thousanders are unmistakable, like you. Sure they are useless, but they are more beautiful for that. Congratulations!"