14 eight-thousanders


8.516 m

“If I were asked which mountain I would climb again, I would never say Lhotse. It shares the same route as Everest up to camp 3, so I was already familiar with part of the route. The final stretch is a corridor which prevents you from seeing anything until you have almost reached the summit. It’s a mountain which I wouldn’t recommend to anybody”

In the shadow of Everest

Ranking: 4 Elevation: 8.516 m
First conquered: On the 18th of May 1956, at 2:45 a.m., Fritz Luchsinger and Ernst Reiss reached the sharp and small summit following its years of obscurity due to its proximity to Everest.

The fourth highest peak in the world, at an elevation of 8,516 metres, this was Pasaban’s first challenge in 2003.

Lhotse is the E1 of the Indian cartographic association. In August 1921, during a reconnaissance of Everest, Howard-Bury was unable to find either a local, Tibetan or Nepali name for this mountain. He decided to call it ‘South Peak’ – Lhotse in Tibetan – due to its geographical location: being connected by its southern pass to the South of Everest.


On the 13th of May 1994, Carlos Carsolio solo climbed Lhotse, setting a new world speed record with his ascent: 23 hrs and 50 minutes from Base Camp to the summit. In addition, he became the fourth person on earth, and the youngest, to complete «The big five».

There are currently five routes on the south faces of Lhotse and just one on the west face.


Summit reached by Edurne Pasaban on the 26th of May 2003.