14 eight-thousanders


8.125 m

“After K2, having suffered frostbite and amputations, Nanga was a test. I wanted to make sure that I could go on climbing and so we chose a tough mountain. These were difficult moments in my life. I hold very dear my great friends from this expedition, who were at my side and helped me with the great Kinshofer spur.”

Iguala a Rutkievicz

Ranking: 5 Elevation: 8.125 m
First conquered: In 1953 the Austrian climber Hermann Buhl became the only mountaineer to make a solo first ascent of an eight-thousander, and without supplemental oxygen.

The ascent of Nanga Parbat (2005) was a significant moment in Edurne’s career. Upon reaching the summit of Nanga Parbat (Pakistan, 8,125 m), she equalled the legendary record of Polish climber Wanda Rutkievicz, the first woman to climb eight of the eight-thousanders (and who died aged 49 whilst trying to reach the summit of Kangchenjunga). This meant that Edurne had become the woman with the most eight-thousanders completed to be currently alive.

This is a challenging mountain, and the cold made her attempt to reach the summit more difficult. The ascent was achieved via the west side of the mountain via the route known as ‘Kinshofer’. By ascending it, Edurne proved that she had totally recovered from her frostbite on K2.

Nanga Parbat is the ninth highest mountain in the world and the second highest in Pakistan. Nanga Parbat means ‘naked mountain’ in Urdu and Hindi. The name comes from the fact that it is a remote mountain, separated from the rest, and so the part which is perpetually covered in snow stands out on the landscape. At the same time, this is also what makes it a dangerous mountain for climbers. In fact, throughout the history of mountaineering the ascent of Nanga Parbat has claimed numerous victims.

Summit climbed by Edurne Pasaban on the 20th of July 2005.