14 eight-thousanders

Shisha Pangma

8.027 m

“The smallest of the fourteen, but the one I found the hardest. After 4 failed attempts, I was finally able to complete the 14 eight-thousanders the fifth time around. It’s etched in my memory. We attacked the summit from camp 4 via an alternative route which Iñaki Ochoa de Olza had told me about. We really enjoyed our ascent.”

A summit which made history

Ranking: 14 Elevation: 8.027 m
First conquered: It was conquered for the first time in 1964 by the Chinese mountaineer Xǔ Jìng and a further nine Tibetans who made up the expedition.

Shishapangma (official name Xixiabangma), also known as ‘Gosainthan’, at 8,027 metres above sea level is the smallest of the 14 summits over 8,000 metres. Its name in Tibetan means «crest above the grassy plain» whilst ‘Gosainthan’, in Hindi, means «the throne of the gods».

Out of the 14 summits with an elevation of over 8,000 metres above sea level, Shishapangma is the only one which is located entirely in the region of Tibet, more specifically in the Langtang national park to the North of Katmandu. The absence of any other major peaks around it serves to majestically highlight its steep and rocky south face.

It was conquered for the first time in 1964 by the Chinese mountaineer Xǔ Jìng along with a team of nine Tibetans.

It would not be climbed again until 1980, due to the ban imposed by the Chinese authorities which came to an end in 1978.

Attempted via its most accessible route, via the north face, it is considered to be one of the ‘easiest’ eight-thousanders to climb. The base camp, at around 5000 metres, can be reached by vehicle. Far more challenging are the routes on the southeast face of the mountain, routes reserved solely for highly experienced climbers. Around 21 people have lost their lives while ascending this mountain.

Summit climbed by Edurne Pasaban on the 17th of May 2010.